Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
CRUZ DEL CÓNDOR
Some much hyped travel sights are anticlimactic in the raw light of day, but this is
not
one
of them. No advance press can truly sell the
Cruz del Cóndor
(admission with boleto
turístico)
, a famed viewpoint, also known locally as Chaq'lla, about 50km west of Chiv-
ay. A large family of Andean condors nests by the rocky outcrop and, weather and season
permitting, they can be seen between approximately 8am and 10am gliding effortlessly on
thermal air currents rising from the canyon, swooping low over onlookers' heads (condors
rarely flap their wings). It's a mesmerizing scene, heightened by the spectacular 1200m
drop to the river below and the sight of
Nevado Mismi
reaching over 3000m above the
canyon floor on the other side of the ravine.
Recently it has become more difficult to see the condors, mostly due to air pollution, in-
cluding from travelers' campfires and tour buses. The condors are also less likely to ap-
pear on rainy days so it's best to visit during the dry season. You won't be alone at the
lookout. Expect a couple of hundred people for the 8am 'show' in season. Afterwards, it
is possible to walk 12.5km from the viewpoint to Cabanaconde.
Lower Canyon
The narrow lower canyon is the Colca at its deepest. It runs roughly from Cabanaconde
down to Huambo. Fruit trees can be found around Tapay and Sangalle, but otherwise the
canyon supports no real economic activity.
CABANACONDE
054 / POP 2700 / ELEV 3290M
Only approximately 20% of Colca Canyoners get as far as ramshackle Cabanaconde
(most organized itineraries turn around at the Cruz del Cóndor). For those who make it,
the attractions are obvious - less people, more authenticity and greater tranquility. Wel-
come to the
true
canyon experience. The Colca is significantly deeper here with steep,
zigzagging paths tempting the fit and the brave to descend 1200m to the eponymous river.
There are no ATMs in Cabanaconde. Stash some cash.
Activities
You've only half-experienced Colca if you haven't descended into the canyon by foot (the
only method anywhere west of Madrigal). The shortest way in is via the spectacular two-
hour hike from Cabanaconde down to
Sangalle
(also popularly known as 'the oasis') at
the bottom of the canyon, where four sets of basic bungalows and camping grounds have
sprung up, all costing from about S10 to S15 per person. There are two natural pools for
