South Coast - Peru - page 248

(Blvd Turístico; mains S15-35; 7am-10pm) Coffee and chocolate brownies hit the spot
at this open-all-day cafe that remains lively after most other places have closed.
Getting There & Around
A few buses run daily between Lima and the El Chaco beach district of Paracas (S40 to
S55, 3½ hours) before continuing to other destinations south. These include Cruz del Sur
( 53-6336) and Oltursa ( in Lima 01-708-5000; www.oltursa.com.pe ) ; the latter
company also runs direct buses to Nazca, Ica, Arequipa and Lima from Paracas. Prices are
the same as from Pisco. Most agencies in El Chaco sell bus tickets including Paracas Ex-
plorer ( 53-1487, 54-5089; www.pparacasexplorer.com ; Paracas 9) .
Transportation from Paracas to Pisco is possible via combi (S1.50, 30 minutes), or
colectivo (S2.50, 20 minutes).
Ica
056 / 125,000 / ELEV 420M
Just when you thought the landscape was dry enough for Martians, out jumps Ica, Peru's
agricultural 'miracle in the desert' that churns out Californian amounts of asparagus, cot-
ton and fruits, as well as laying claim to being the nation's leading (and best) wine produ-
cer. Ica, like Pisco, sustained significant earthquake damage in 2007 - the graceful cathed-
ral, though still standing, has been condemned, while two other churches are undergoing
lengthy repairs. Most people who make it this far bed down in infinitely more attractive
Huacachina 4km to the west, but Ica has reasons to be cheerful too: the south coast's best
museum (outside Arequipa) resides here, plus - arguably - the finest winery in Peru. If
Nazca seems too much of a circus, it's also possible to organize Nazca Line excursions
from Ica - the desert etchings lie 1½ hours to the south.
Sights & Activities
Ica's main square has been repainted post-Earthquake in generic mustard-yellow to reflect
its 'city of eternal sun' moniker. The two sinuous obelisks in its center are supposed to
signify the Nazca and Paracas cultures. Elsewhere, bustling commerce has returned.