Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Cañete & Cerro Azul
01 / POP 37,000
The full name of this small market town and transport nexus, about 145km south of Lima,
is San Vicente de Cañete. Most Peruvian holidaymakers head north of town to Cerro
Azul, a beach that's popular with experienced surfers. It's a 15-minute walk west of Km
131 on Carr Panamericana Sur, about 15km north of town. There's a small Inca sea fort in
the area, known as Huarco , but it's in a poor state.
In Cerro Azul, the surfer-friendly Hostal Cerro Azul ( 271-1302,
www.cerroazulhostal.com ; Puerto Viejo 106; d/tr/q/ste S150/ 185/200/220) is less than
100m from the shoreline. If you're hungry, beachfront restaurants all serve fresh seafood.
Restaurant Juanito ( 335-3710; Rivera del Mar; mains S20-25; 8am-9pm) is a
popular local pick.
From Lima, buses for Pisco or Ica can drop you at Cañete and sometimes Cerro Azul
(S18 to S21, 2½ hours). Buses back to Lima are invariably crowded, especially on Sunday
from January to April. There are also combis between Cañete and Cerro Azul (S1, 30
minutes) or south to Chincha (S2, one hour).
Lunahuaná
01 / PO 3600 / ELEV 1700M
The small town of Lunahuaná rises like a slice of desert romance above the foggy and
grubby coastal strip south of Lima. Reached via a winding 38km road that tracks east
from the noisy settlement of Cañete, it appears almost magically, a thin strip of broccoli
green amid the dusty desert that gleams with a touch of Middle Eastern promise. But,
there are no Bedouin tents or wailing minarets here. Instead, Lunahuaná's raison d'être is
split between wine-production and river running. Both owe their existence to the season-
ably turbulent Rio Cañete, whose class IV rapids provide cheap thrills for brave rafters
and a vital form of irrigation for the local vineyards.
Some people incorporate Luanahuaná into an overnighter from Lima and it's certainly
worth the effort. The best time to show up is during the second week of March for the
grape harvest, Fiesta de la Vendimia . An adventure-sports festival is usually held in
late February or early March.
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