Lima - Peru - page 215

Southern Beaches
01
Every summer, limeños make a beeline for the beaches clustered along the Panamericana
to the south. The exodus peaks on weekends, when, occasionally, the road is so congested
that it becomes temporarily one way. The principal beach towns include El Silencio,
Señoritas, Caballeros, Punta Hermosa, Punta Negra, San Bartolo, Santa María, Naplo and
Pucusana. Don't expect tropical resorts; this stretch of barren, coastal desert is lapped by
cold water and strong currents. Inquire locally before swimming, as drownings occur an-
nually.
Popular with families is San Bartolo , which is cluttered with hostels at budget to
midrange rates during the busy summer. Sitting above the bay, Hostal 110 ( 430-7559;
www.hostal110.com ; Malecón San Martín Nte 110; d S100-130, additional person S30;
) , has 14 spacious and neat tiled rooms and apartments - some of which sleep up to
six - staggered over a swimming pool on the cliffside. Guests pay the higher rate on
Saturdays. On the far southern edge of town (take a mototaxi ), facing the soccer field, the
recommended Restaurant Rocío ( 430-8184; www.restaurant-rocio.com ; Urb Villa
Mercedes, Mz A, Lte 5-6; mains S15-38; 11am-11pm) serves fresh fish grilled, fried
and bathed in garlic.
Further south, Punta Hermosa , with its relentless waves, is the surfer spot. The town
has plenty of accommodations. A good choice is the compact Punta Hermosa Surf Inn (
230-7732; www.puntahermosasurfinn.com ; Bolognesi 407, cnr Pacasmayo; dm/s/d in-
cl breakfast S45/60/120; ) , which has six rooms, a cozy hangout area with hammocks
and cable TV. Note: weekend rates are S30 higher for private rooms and S10 higher for
shared rooms. The largest waves in Peru, which can reach a height of 10m, are found
nearby at Pico Alto (at Panamericana Km 43).
Punta Rocas , a little further south, is also popular with experienced surfers (annual
competitions are held here), who generally crash at the basic Hostal Hamacas (
88-104-144; www.hostalhamacas.com ; Panamericana Km 47; s/d with air-con S104/117,
with fan S60/78, 2-person apt S143) , right on the beach. There are 15 rooms and five
bungalows (which sleep six), all with private bathrooms, hot water and ocean views.
There is an on-site restaurant during the high season (October to April). It also rents
boards. Generally, however, surfboard rental is almost nonexistent; best to bring your
own.
To get to these beaches, take a bus signed 'San Bartolo' from the Panamericana Sur at
the Puente Primavera in Lima. You can get off at any of the beach towns along the route,