Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
from the Alianza Lima stadium is renowned for its
leche de tigre
(ceviche broth), served
not in the typical shot glass but in a soup bowl, studded with fresh seafood. The ceviches
are equally spectacular. This is a rough neighborhood; take a taxi - even in the daytime.
Cevichería la Choza Nauticà $$
( 423-8087;
www.lachozanautica.com.pe
;
Breña 204; ceviches S20-36, mains S19-39;
8am-11pm Mon-Sat, 8am-9pm Sun)
A surprisingly bright spot in a slightly dingy area,
this popular
cevichería,
tended to by bow-tied waiters, offers more than a dozen types of
ceviches and
tiraditos
(Japanese-style ceviche, without onions). There is also a long list of
soups, seafood and rice dishes. Live music plays on busy nights.
CEVICHE
PERUVIAN
Domus $
( 427-0525; Miró Quesada 410; 3-course menús S16; 9am-4:30pm Mon-Fri)
A re-
stored 19th-century mansion houses this modern-yet-intimate two-room restaurant that
caters to journalists from the nearby offices of
El Comercio
. There is no à la carte dining,
just a rotating daily list of well-executed Peruvian-Italian specialties that always includes
a vegetarian option in the mix. Freshly squeezed juices accompany this well-tended feast.
Excellent value; highly recommended.
CAFETERIA
El Cordano $
( 427-0181; Ancash 202; mains S8-26; 8am-9pm)
A Lima institution since 1905,
this old-world dining hall has served practically every Peruvian president for the last 100
years (the presidential palace is right across the street). It is known for its skillfully
rendered
tacu tacu
(pan-fried rice and beans) and
butifarra
(French bread stuffed with
country ham).
L'Eau Vive $$
( 427-5612; Ucayali 370; mains S30, 3-course menús S15-30; 12:30-3pm &
7:30-9:30pm Mon-Sat)
In an 18th-century building, this very simple and somewhat un-
usual eatery is run by French Carmelite nuns. Expect French and other continental spe-
cialties (think
coquilles St Jacques
) - with various Peruvian influences. The food isn't
FRENCH
