Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
sampling:
arroz con pato a la chiclayana
(duck and rice simmered in cilantro, typical of
Chiclayo) and
seco de cabrito
(goat stewed in cilantro, chilis and beer).
Along the coast, where the Asian presence is
most significant, you will also find the
Peruvian-Chinese restaurants known as
chifas
.
The cuisine is largely Cantonese-influenced:
simple dishes low on heavy sauces.
Sumptuous photographs and recipes are available in
Tony Custer and Miguel Etchepare's hard-back
tome
The Art of Peruvian Cuisine
. Log on to
www.artperucuisine.com
for a delicious preview.
A PISCO PRIMER
It is the national beverage: pisco, the omnipresent grape brandy served at events from the insignificant to the mo-
mentous. Production dates back to the early days of the Spanish colony in Ica, where it was distilled on private
haciendas and then sold to sailors making their way through the port of Pisco. In its early years, pisco was the loc-
al firewater: a great way to get ripped - and wake up the following morning feeling as if you had been hammered
over the head.
By the early 20th century, the pisco sour (pisco with lime juice and sugar) arrived on the scene, quickly becom-
ing the national drink. In recent decades, as production has become more sophisticated, piscos have become more
nuanced and flavorful (without the morning-after effects).
The three principal types of Peruvian pisco are Quebranta, Italia and acholado. Quebranta (a pure-smelling
pisco) and Italia (slightly aromatic) are each named for the varieties of grape from which they are crafted, while
acholado is a blend of varietals that has more of an alcohol top-note (best for mixed drinks). There are many
small-batch specialty piscos made from grape must (pressed juice with skins), known as
mosto verde
. These have
a fragrant smell and are best sipped straight.
The most common brands include Tres Generaciones, Ocucaje, Ferreyros and La Botija, while Viñas de Oro,
Viejo Tonel, Estirpe Peruano, LaBlanco and Gran Cruz are among the finest. Any pisco purchased in a bottle that
resembles the head of an Inca will make for an unusual piece of home decor - and not much else.
Highlands
In the chilly highlands, it's all about soups - which tend to be a generous, gut-warming
experience, filled with vegetables, squash, potatoes, locally-grown herbs and a variety of
meats.
Sopa a la criolla
(a mild, creamy noodle soup with beef and vegetables) is a regu-
lar item on menus, as is
caldo de gallina
(a nourishing chicken soup with potatoes and
herbs). In the area around Arequipa,
chupe de camarones
(chowder made from river
shrimp) is also a mainstay.
