Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Wat
The ubiquitous companion of injera , wat is Ethiopia's version of curry and can be very
spicy - fortunately the injera helps to temper the heat.
In the highlands, beg (sheep) is the most common constituent of wat . Bere (beef) is en-
countered in the large towns, and fiyel (goat) most often in the arid lowlands. Chicken is
the king of the wat and doro wat is practically the national dish. Ethiopian Christians as
well as Muslims avoid pork. On the fasting days ( Click here ) of Wednesdays and Fri-
days, throughout Lent and prior to Christmas, as well as a further couple of occasions,
meat and dairy dishes are avoided and various vegetarian versions of wat are available.
Most foreigners become firm fans of fasting food.
Kai wat is a stew of meat boiled in a spicy (thanks to oodles of berbere ) red sauce. Kai
sauce is also used for minchet abesh, which is a thick minced-meat stew topped with a
hard-boiled egg - it's one of our favourites, particularly with aib (like dry cottage cheese).
Most Ethiopians seem to be under the impression that all foreigners are terrified of
spicy food and so, unless you specifically ask for kai wat , you'll often be served the
yellow-coloured alicha wat, a much milder, and really rather dull-tasting wat .
Kitfo
Kitfo is a big treat for the ordinary Ethiopian. The leanest meat is reserved for this dish,
which is then minced and warmed in a pan with a little butter, mitmita (a stronger version
of berbere) and sometimes tosin (thyme). It can be bland and disgusting, or tasty and di-
vine. If you're ravenous after a hard day's travelling, it's just the ticket, as it's very filling.
Traditionally, it's served just leb leb
(warmed not cooked), though you can ask for
it to be betam leb leb (literally 'very warmed',
ie cooked!). A kitfo special is served with aib
and gomen (minced spinach).
In the Gurage region (where it's something
of a speciality) it's often served with kotcho (
enset; false-banana 'bread'). Kitfo bets (restaurants specialising in kitfo ) are found in the
larger towns.
Another favourite meat dish of ours is siga tibs , which consists of small strips of fried
meat served with onions, garlic and spices. It's most commonly served derek (dry), but
you can also find a merek yalew version, which comes in a liquid sauce.
If you become a massive fan of kitfo or tere sega,
best get tested for tape worms ( Click here ) when
you get home. Hopefully there'll be no pain to go
with your tasty gain.
 
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