Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
The churches are unique in that many stand
completely free from the rock, unlike similar
structures in Jordan and Egypt. The buildings
show extraordinary technical skill in the use of
line, proportion and decoration, and in the re-
markable variety of styles.
The rock-hewn churches of the Tigray re-
gion, though less famous and spectacular, are no less remarkable.
Emperor Haile Selassie had a fairly unique taste in
architecture. The Church of St Mary of Zion in Ak-
sum and the church at Debre Libanos are excep-
tional examples of his unusual 'vision'.
HOOFPRINTS & SAINTLY REMINDERS
Few would doubt that the churches of Lalibela are one of the architectural highlights of the early Middle Ages.
And of all the churches none are as exquisite as the cruciform Bet Giyorgis. So perfectly composed is this church
you could be forgiven for thinking that it could not possibly be the design of mere men. And according to Ethiopi-
an tradition you'd be right.
Just as King Lalibela was finishing off his series of churches, he was suddenly paid an unexpected visit. Astride
a white horse and decked out in full armour came Ethiopia's patron saint, George. However, the saint turned out to
be severely piqued: not one of the churches had been dedicated to him.
Profusely apologetic, Lalibela promised to make amends immediately by building him the most beautiful
church of all.
Today, the priests of Bet Giyorgis (meaning 'Place of George') point out the hoofprints left behind by the
saint's horse, permanently imprinted in stone on the side of the trench.
Gonder Architecture
The town of Gonder and its imperial enclosure represent another peak in Ethiopian archi-
tectural achievement. Although Portuguese, Moorish and Indian influences are all evident,
the castles are nevertheless a peculiarly Ethiopian synthesis. Some have windows decor-
ated with red volcanic tuff, and barrel- or egg-shaped domes.
Ethiopian Houses
Ethiopian houses are famously diverse; each ethnic group has developed its own design
according to its own lifestyle and resources. In general, the round tukul (hut) forms the
basis of most designs. Circular structures and conical thatched roofs better resist the wind
and heavy rain. Windows and chimneys are usually absent. The smoke, which escapes
 
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