Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
work, including some roads out of an engineer's nightmare. This inaccessibility results in
isolated communities and, for the travellers, a constant sense of coming upon undis-
covered locales. Birdwatchers will be rubbing their hands in anticipation: the Sanaag
province is one of Somaliland's finest birdwatching venues.
From Burao, allow at least four days to do the region justice.
FROM BURAO TO ERIGAVO
The main gateway to the Sanaag province is Burao. From here, a tarred road leads to the
junction village of Inaafmadaw, about 65km south of Burao, where the real wilderness of
the far east begins to unfold. Here you turn left onto a sandy track that runs southeast
through a series of rickety settlements, including Garadak, El Afweyn, Calsheikh and
Yulfe before reaching Erigavo. This stretch takes you through the hauntingly beautiful
Saraar Plains
; these vast arid expanses of stone and sand populated by nomadic pastoral-
ists and hemmed in by bulky rocky outcrops are a magical sight. Count on a good full day
to cover the daunting but fascinating 350km trip from Burao to Erigavo.
ERIGAVO
The first major stop in the east after leaving Burao, Erigavo has the feeling of a frontier
town. Perched on an arid plateau at an altitude of 1770m, the capital of the Sanaag region
has little tourism value of its own, but it has a pleasant enough atmosphere and it's the
only place with decent facilities in the far east. It's also the perfect base from which to
head out to Daallo Forest and Maydh.
Sleeping & Eating
Sanaag Hotel $
( 4414507, 4200484; s/d US$10/20, s/d without bathroom US$4/8; )
Accommoda-
tion options are thin on the ground here. Sanaag is a modest venture where you can relax
in peace. It has spartan rooms with dank bathrooms. With notice staff can prepare meals.
The owner, Abdirahman Farah, has lived in the US and speaks excellent English.
HOTEL
Beder Restaurant $
(mains US$1-3; breakfast, lunch & dinner)
A cheerful little place with a strikingly col-
ourful facade. Good spot for a comforting breakfast (superb
loxox
!) or a quick meal later
in the day.
SOMALI
