Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
HARGEISA
POP 1.2 MILLION
On a global index of odd capitals, Hargeisa would be a strong contender for one of the top
spots. It's a down-to-earth, friendly place that's undergoing a rapid transformation. The
streets are alive, the roads are busy and the air is thick with a very bearable cacophony of
mobile phones, vehicle horns and calls to prayer. Sure, the capital of Somaliland still bears
the scars of the civil war that destroyed the country in the past decades, but look past the
makeshift shops and housing and you will see Hargeisa's unmistakable pep and determina-
tion to rebuild. As with any city in transition, it offers plenty of contrasts: donkey carts
jostle for road space with 4WDs and battered minibuses, goats and sheep roam through the
dusty side roads, elegant Somali ladies stroll down the main drag, turbaned clan elders re-
lax over a cup of sweet Somali tea and youngsters from the diaspora watch Manchester Un-
ited on Al-Jazeera at a modern cafeteria or update their Facebook page at an internet cafe.
ORGANISING A POLICE ESCORT
Independent travel is possible in Somaliland, but there are restrictions. Since the murder of three aid workers by
Somali terrorists from Mogadishu in 2003, local authorities have taken the safety of Westerners very seriously, to the
point of being overprotective. But no wonder: if foreigners were to encounter a 'problem', Somaliland's diplomatic
efforts to gain international recognition would be ruined. In fact, petty crime is almost unheard of and Somalilanders
welcome travellers in their country.
In principle, foreigners are required to travel accompanied by a member of the Special Protection Unit (SPU) out-
side Hargeisa, whether you travel on public transport or private car with driver. If you don't have a soldier with you,
you'll be turned back at checkpoints. That said, this rule is ambiguous and erratically enforced, as local authorities
seem to change policies on a regular basis. At the time of research, we were told that foreigners are permitted to travel
without an SPU officer between Hargeisa, Berbera, Burao and Borama, and between Hargeisa and the Ethiopian and
Djiboutian borders. In theory, you are allowed to use public transport between these towns. However, prior to leaving
Hargeisa, it's a good idea to meet the Police Commissioner Secretary at the Somaliland Police Force Headquarters,
who will either issue a waiver letter on the spot or give a call to the soldiers at checkpoints so that they let you
through. If you don't have an escort or a waiver letter, you might be turned back at checkpoints.
For all parts of the country east of Burao, you must have SPU protection (two armed soldiers, though one may be
considered enough - again, check the situation with the Somaliland Police Force Headquarters) and travel in a private
vehicle. It also helps at checkpoints if you have an official form from the Ministry of Commerce, Industry & Tourism
that lists all the places you intend to visit in the country (
Click here
)
.
All hotels can arrange SPU protection. It costs about US$20 per day for a soldier, plus food. Having a soldier can
sometimes be fun, and soldiers can also act as interpreters and de facto guides. It's a good idea to buy a few bunches
of
chat
(leaf chewed as a stimulant) to facilitate things at the various checkpoints.
