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puny prices. It occupies a rooftop, with a moodily lit dining area and an open kitchen -
not to mention the heady scents of incense. For lunch, you can head to the much less at-
agement).
Moukbasa National $$
( 21351588; Ave 13; fish menu DFr2000; lunch & dinner Sat-Thu)
There are a few
good ventures specialising in
poisson yemenite
(oven-baked fish) around town but this
one was the most popular at the time of writing, although it's not right in the thick of
things. There are no menus; just choose your glistening beastie (usually sea bream,
grouper or barracuda) in the fridge and it's barbecued
a la Yemeni
: the whole thing is
sliced in half, smacked against the walls of a fire pit and baked to a black crisp - you're
welcome to have a look and take pictures. It's sprinkled with hot pepper and served with a
chapati
(flatbread) and a belt-bustingly good
mokbasa
(purée of honey and either dates or
banana). Truly finger-licking.
YEMENI
Restaurant Saba $$
( 21354244; Ave Maréchal Lyautey; mains DFr1000-3000; breakfast & lunch Sat-
Thu, dinner daily)
This Yemeni-run institution serves well-prepared fish and meat dishes
without fuss. Some reliable choices are skewered fish, fillet of barracuda, camel steak and
poisson yemenite
. There are some good pastas and salads (from DFr800), which will glad-
den vegetarian hearts, as well as superb fruit juices.
YEMENI, SEAFOOD
Restaurant-Café de la Gare $$$
( 21351530; Ave F d'Esperey; mains DFr2500-3600; lunch & dinner Sat-Thu)
Al-
fresco on a little pavement terrace or inside the pretty dining room decorated with earthy
tones, dining at this cosy eatery is a treat - a true alchemist, the Senegalese chef here con-
jures up French-inspired specialities with an African twist. Highlights include fish fillet,
king prawns and duck leg preserved in its own fat.
FRENCH
Mukbassa Central - Chez Youssouf $$
YEMENI