Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
HYENA FEEDING
The practice of feeding scraps of meat to hyenas began in the 1950s. The original hyena man (his family is the
one living and working by the shrine today) started doing it to acquire good luck, but when some tourists started
showing up he realised he could make money too. The inspiration is an older tradition in which hyenas were given
porridge to discourage them from attacking livestock during a drought. Following that an annual feeding began
during a festival called Ashura, in which hyenas are fed porridge as a foretelling of the city's fortune for the up-
coming year.
Many hyenas roam Harar's streets at night and if you go for an after-hours stroll, especially in Old Harar, you
might just meet them. It's a frightening experience, but we've been assured multiple times that they pose no risk.
The first sight of Africa's second-largest predator is usually of vague shadows and lu-
minous green eyes as they skulk in and out of the shadows. As the pack grows more con-
fident, they dart forward with their peculiar gait until all reservations are lost and they ap-
proach the hyena men to be fed, literally climbing on top of them to make a show of it.
Watching costs Birr50 and if you're game you can feed them yourself, holding the meat
stick in your hands or mouth. Most people go with a guide, but it's not required. Taxis
(Birr100 round trip) cost more than
bajaj
(Birr50) but it's worth it because they have
brighter headlights.
Mikael Cemetery
You don't come to this place below Mikael Church for the graves, but the excellent views
of the old town from the road below them. Photography is best in the afternoon. A con-
tract
bajaj
should cost Birr10. If the driver doesn't know it, tell him Deker Condominium.
CEMETERY
Harar Brewery
Built by the Czechs in 1984 and purchased by Heineken in 2011, this is a very modern
brewery. Half-hour tours take you through pretty much the whole facility and at the end
you can even drink unpasteurised beer direct from the bottling line. They might give you a
free shirt and hat too. Tours are always available on Fridays, but local Harar guides can
usually arrange them on other weekdays. Morning (8am to 11am) is best because in the
afternoon, it can take some time to find the person in charge.
BREWERY
Markets
No visit to Harar would be complete without wading through its shambolic markets.
They're packed with Oromo people from the surrounding countryside coming to town to
