Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
There's an excellent photographic exhibition of turn-of-the-20th-century Harar - with
several of the photos taken by Rimbaud - that show some similarities to the city of today
but also many significant differences. In front is a women's association where you can
sometimes see basket weaving.
ARTHUR RIMBAUD: A POET ADRIFT
In 1875 one of France's finest poets turned his back on his poetry, his country, his wild living and his lover to re-
verse his fortunes and see the world. He was just 21 years old, broke and bitter.
By 1880 Arthur Rimbaud had travelled to Germany, Italy, Cyprus, and Java (with the Dutch Colonial Army
from which he later deserted) and, in the service of a coffee trader in Aden (Yemen), became the first white man
to travel into the Ogaden region of southeastern Ethiopia and finally lived like a local in a small house in Harar.
His interest in culture, languages and people made him popular and his plain speaking and integrity won him the
trust of the chiefs and Ras Makonnen, the governor of Harar. His commercial dealings were equally as colourful
and included coffee trading and running guns to King Menelik of Shoa.
In 1891 Rimbaud developed a tumour on his right knee. Leaving Harar in early April, he endured the week's
journey to the coast on a stretcher. Treatment at Aden was not a success and Rimbaud continued onto Marseilles,
where his right leg was amputated. By this time the cancer had spread and he died later that year at the age of 37.
During his self-imposed exile to Ethiopia, Rimbaud's poetry had become increasingly known in France for its
daring imagery and beautiful and evocative language. Sadly this belated recognition brought him little satisfaction
and he remained indifferent to his fame until his dying day.
'I drifted on a river, I could not control
No longer guided by a bargemen's ropes
…
When my bargemen could no longer haul me
I forgot about everything and drifted on.'
Extracts from Rimbaud's The Drunken Boat (1871)
Ras Tafari's House
Within pouncing distance of Rimbaud's House is the conspicuous Ras Tafari's House. The
house was built by an Indian trader and many of its features, such as the Ganesh carving
above the door, are Eastern in origin. Haile Selassie spent his honeymoon here: hence the
house bears his pre-coronation name. It's now the home of the
Sherif Harar City Mu-
HOUSE
8.30am-noon & 2-5pm)
. The museum houses a
