Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
BULL JUMPING
Whipping, teasing, screaming, horn-blowing and leaping are part of the Jumping of the Bulls ceremony. It's a rite of
passage into manhood for all Hamer and Banna boys and is truly a sight to behold. After 15 to 30 bulls have been
lined up side by side, each naked boy taking part must cross the line of bulls, jumping on the beasts from back to
back. If they fall, they're whipped and teased by women. If they succeed, they must turn around and complete the
task three more times!
Before the bulls, young female relatives of the boys beg to be whipped with sticks; the deeper their scars, the
more love they show for their boy. It's as disturbing as it is intriguing.
January to April is the peak season, but the ceremonies can happen any time. The whole event lasts more than a
day, but the main activities happen between 2pm and 6pm. You must, of course, go with a guide, from either Turmi
or Dimeka. Prices are up to the chief and so you may not know the cost until you get to the village, but it's not going
to be less than Birr300 per person.
DIMEKA
Dimeka, 28km north of Turmi, is the biggest town in Hamer territory and we think its
Saturday
market
(Tuesday is smaller) is the best of the big ones. The
Dimeka Negaya
Local Guides Association
( 8.30am-12.30pm & 1.30-4pm)
charges Birr150 per group
for the mandatory guide through the market and another Birr200 to take you to surround-
ing villages, including the Bashada (Hamer who make pottery, to oversimplify things) vil-
lage of
Argude
5km away. They can also take you trekking overnight up Mt Busca, the
area's highest peak, if you have your own camping gear.
Few
faranji
sleep here, and when you see the state of the three pensions (each with
grubby common toilets, lack of showers and Birr200 initial asking prices) you'll probably
want to join the masses and head to Turmi.
The market day buses between Jinka (Birr50, three hours) and Turmi (Birr20, 30
minutes) pass through. At other times, it's usually not tough to hitch a ride.
KANGATEN & KOLCHO
This pair of Omo River-side destinations makes an excellent day trip out of Turmi,
though most people only visit Kolcho. Both are largely hassle-free, though it's best to visit
in the Nyangatom villages in the morning because many men are quite drunk by the after-
noon. This way you also avoid the morning caravan of 4WDs occupying Kolcho.
