Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
ARI VILLAGES
The Ari is the most 'modern' of the region's ethnic groups. They dress no differently than
city dwellers these days, but village life remains interesting. In almost all villages you'll
meet potters, blacksmiths and women grinding grain to make the Ari version of injera,
which uses maize or sorghum instead of tef and has dagussa ('finger millet') mixed into
it. If you're lucky someone may invite you to try bunaketele, a delicious drink made from
coffee leaves, chillies and several spices including lemongrass. Guides most often take
people to Yetnebersh (per person Birr50) , 7km west of Jinka, which is as good as any
around.
MAKE IT MEANINGFUL
Far too often, people treat their visits to Omo Valley villages like human safaris. The villagers line up, the tourists
pick some out, cameras click, birr flies, and the tourists jump back into their Land Cruiser to rush off to the next
stop. It doesn't have to be this way, but to avoid it you'll probably need to take the initiative because most guides
do little more than negotiate the photography fees.
Village visits are so much better when there's genuine interaction. Start by not starting with the photos. Stroll
through the village first. Visit some houses and ask questions. (Have your guide translate your questions to the vil-
lagers rather than answer himself.) The answers will often surprise you, and you'll not only learn interesting
things about their lives, you might gain new perspectives on your own.
KEY AFAR
A rather large modern town, what Key Afar lacks in atmosphere for six days out of the
week it more than makes up for on Thursday with one of the best markets around. Thou-
sands of Banna, Hamer and Tsemay descend on the town, along with every tourist in the
vicinity.
All visitors must hire a guide from the Anomba Local Tour Guide Association (
0920-282170; guide per group Birr150; 8am-5pm) across from the Nasa Hotel. On
nonmarket days they can take you to visit surrounding Banna villages (each with a Bir-
r100 per person entrance fee), some of which are within easy walking distance. Jumping
of the Bulls ceremonies ( Click here ) and evangadi (Hamer night dances; Birr200 per per-
son) take place in these villages. The guide fee doubles if they take you to see the bulls.
Nasa Hotel (
0462-710021; d with/without bathroom Birr150/100;
) , on the road
that leads to Weyto, and the squat-toilet-only Zarsi Hotel (
0911-608751; d Birr150;
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