Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
ties, particularly for psychological disorders and skin problems. The priest will let you
taste it. It's 20 to 30 minutes' walk up the hill from the road.
CHURCH
Bilbila Chirkos
(admission Birr100)
Also near Arbatu Ensessa, some 5km off the main road, this is an in-
teresting three-quarter monolith known particularly for its ancient frescoes. Also attrib-
uted to King Kaleb, it's thought to date from AD 523. It's a three-minute walk from the
road.
Ashetan Maryam
(admission Birr50)
Set at 3150m, atop Abune Yosef mountain, the local priests believe
they're 'closer to heaven and God' here, and it's easy to see why. The monastery's con-
struction is believed to span Lalibela's and Na'akuto La'ab's reign; some even claim King
Na'akuto La'ab lies buried in the chapel. Church treasures include parchment and some
icons. Although the architecture here compares pretty poorly with Lalibela, it's the stun-
ning mountain scenery you really come for. The two-hour climb (one way) is quite steep.
Many travellers ride mules (Birr200), though you'll still need to walk in places.
MONASTERY
Na'akuto La 'ab
(admission Birr150)
Lying 7km from Lalibela, just off the airport road, this is a simple but
attractive church (apart from the outer security wall). It's attributed to King Lalibela's suc-
cessor and is built under a natural cave. It was almost certainly the site of a much older
shrine. Empress Zewditu built the inner red-brick building. Some very old stone recept-
acles collect the precious holy water as it drips from the cave roof. The church boasts vari-
ous treasures said to have belonged to its founder, including crosses, crowns, gold-painted
drums and an illuminated Bible.
CHURCH
Geneta Maryam
(admission Birr150)
Geneta Maryam is thought to have been built around 1270 by
Yekuno Amlak, who restored the Solomonic line. With its rectangular shape and 20
massive rectangular pillars that support it, Geneta Maryam resembles Lalibela's Bet Med-
hane Alem. It's also known for its remarkable 13th-century paintings, though most are
very faded. There's a moon-shaped face of Christ on the western wall. Whoever built the
hideous protective roof over it should be ashamed. It's about five hours by foot from Lali-
bela, or 1½ hours by vehicle.
CHURCH
