Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
as
Girma Derbie
( 0913-513763; girmaderbie123@yahoo.com)
, can also lead
trekking trips at slightly lower prices because they have their guests sleep in villages (it's
not as romantic as it sounds and many people don't enjoy the rough, hectic conditions;
others love it, though) or use tents instead of the community lodges. This may be your
only option if you book late during the high season.
Churches & Monasteries
The churches around Lalibela vary greatly in style, design and age and offer a different
experience from the churches in Lalibela. Tucked away and still absent from most modern
maps, many require a guide to find them. Also, the already too-high entry fees may rise.
See Lalibela's Getting Around section for transport details.
Yemrehanna Kristos
(admission Birr150, personal video cameras Birr50)
Despite Yemrehanna Kristos being
one of Ethiopia's best-preserved late-Aksumite buildings, few people reward themselves
with a visit. And a reward it is.
The church is different because it's built rather than excavated. Seeing the stepped ex-
terior facade, created from alternating wood and stone layers, you'll understand why so
many of Lalibela's rock-hewn churches look like they do. And knowing that Yemrehanna
Kristos may predate Lalibela's churches by up to 80 years, you have before you a virtual
blueprint of greatness.
Incredibly, the whole church sits on a foundation of carefully laid olive-wood panels,
which 'float' it perfectly above the marshy ground below. The carving and decoration are
exceptional, especially the cruciform windows and the elaborate nave ceiling. Behind the
church lies a pile of mummified bodies: some are those of pilgrims who've come here to
die over the centuries; others are said to be those of the workmen.
This entirely inspiring and slightly spooky complex sits within a cave roofed by basalt
lava flows. The ugly brick wall at the front was built in 1985 to improve the church's se-
curity.
The church is about 1½ hours (45km) north of Lalibela by 4WD. It can easily be visited
along with Arbatu Ensessa, Bilbila Giyorgis and Bilbila Chirkos; 4WD hire should be
about Birr1500. It's also possible to get here by foot or mule. Both options take about five
hours to cover the shorter 20km distance.
CHURCH
Arbatu Ensessa
CHURCH
