Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Medhane Alem Kesho
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Also known as Adi Kesho, after its location, this church is one of Tigray's oldest (perhaps
the oldest), tallest and finest rock-hewn churches. Its exterior and interior walls are
roughly hewn, which only makes the elaborately carved coffered ceiling that much more
special. Ask to watch them unlock the door from the inside: rather ingenious indeed!
From the end of the 4WD track, it's a steep-but-easy 10-minute climb up to the church.
From the highway, you can walk there in about an hour.
CHURCH
ATSBI CLUSTER
A seldom-visited but very rewarding cluster with plenty of public transport between Wuk-
ro and Atsbi (Birr11, one hour) town. Minor churches in the Atsbi cluster include Cherkos
Agebo and Zarema Giyorgis. Market day is Saturday.
Mikael Barka
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(admission Birr50) Atop a small but panoramic hill and behind an ugly 1960s facade sits
this better-than-average rock-hewn church. It has thick cruciform pillars, small carved
ceiling domes, a few paintings so faded you wouldn't even see them if the priest didn't
point them out, and a solitary carving of a foot. Be sure to pop into the nunnery next door.
It's 18km from Wukro and you'll instinctively know which hill it is when you round the
bend and see it. Reaching it involves a 10-minute climb. Buses and minibuses between
Wukro and Atsbi pass by, but when they head back to Wukro, they're usually full so you
may have to wait a while; it could be quicker to continue to Atsbi and return from there.
CHURCH
Mikael Debre Selam
This church or 'church within a church' has an exceptional brown-and-white, Aksumite-
style facade fronting its inner rock-hewn section. The bright, modern paintings at the front
and its beautiful carved arch add an odd but interesting contrast. The setting is lovely and
it's one of our favourites.
The 45-minute climb is strenuous but otherwise not difficult. The church is clearly vis-
ible in the distance, so you could walk there on your own, but finding a direct path would
be tough, so hiring a guide is recommended. The walk usually begins 8km northwest of
Atsbi. Stay left at the first junction and then turn west at the sign (6km north of Atsbi) un-
til you hit the river; in the growing season you'll have to stop at the school, 1km before
CHURCH
 
 
 
 
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