Northern Ethiopia - Ethiopia, Djibouti and Somaliland - page 225

Architecturally speaking, this 10th-century church is one of Tigray's finest. It's large and
cruciform in shape, with cruciform pillars and well-preserved 17th- and 18th-century mur-
als. The obtrusive portico was an attempt by Italians to win over locals by proving they
weren't Muslims. Some of the church treasures, including what's believed to be King Ats-
beha's golden shoes (though not the crucifix said to belong to Abba Salama, the first
Christian in Ethiopia), are properly displayed in glass cases in a new museum (admission
Birr50) . It's 15km west of Wukro.

TAKATISFI CLUSTER
With four churches in easy walking distance from each other just 2km off the highway,
Takatisfi is the perfect cluster for independent travellers. As an added bonus, the priests
are easily found. The best approach is from the village of Dinglet (a minibus from Wukro
is Birr10, 30 minutes), which is just 2.2km from Petros We Paulos. From there, head south
to the other two churches and then take the southwest-running road back to the highway
south of Teka Tesfai, 5km south of Dinglet. If you're travelling by vehicle, it needs to be
4WD. You can drive to within a 10-minute-or-less walk of all the churches. Mikael
Meka'e Offline map is a minor, rarely visited church 15 minutes' walk north of Petros We
Paulos.

Petros We Paulos
Offline map
(admission Birr50) Only partly hewn, this wood, stone and mortar church, now out of ser-
vice, is built on a steep ledge and is more interesting from the outside than in, though the
old, rapidly deteriorating murals of saints and angels are delightfully unsophisticated. Be-
hind the church the skulls of some former monks are lying around enjoying the view. It's a
five-minute climb up a rickety wooden ladder, much like those used at Ethiopian con-
struction sites. The new Petros We Paulos, carved into the rock after God told a local man
to do it, is down below. Note that the priest's home is closer to the highway than the
church. He usually sends one of his children to open the doors.

CHURCH

Mikael Milhaizengi
Offline map
This tiny church, with its stooped doorway, is hewn into the top of a small bleached hill
and is thought to date from the 8th century. It's known for its 3m-high carved dome ceil-
ing that resembles a himbasha (a favourite round bread of Tigrayans) and it's believed by
locals to be the stamp of God. It's about 30 minutes' walk from Medhane Alem Kesho
and 15 minutes from Petros We Paulos.

CHURCH