Northern Ethiopia - Ethiopia, Djibouti and Somaliland - page 200

Some say the foundation on which it sits may belong to Africa's first church, supposedly
erected by King Ezana in the 4th century and destroyed in the 9th century during Queen
Gudit's devastating raid, and then a rebuilt version was destroyed during the incursions of
Ahmed Gragn the Left-Handed in 1535. More remains of this church can be seen next to
the museum.
The huge new church of St Mary of Zion was built in the 1960s so women had a place
to worship and it displays Haile Selassie's usual hideous taste. Still it does cut a dramatic
silhouette on the skyline. Beside it, a disproportionately tall bell tower, inspired by the
stelae, sprouts heavenwards.
Nearby is a museum (soon to be moved and expanded) containing an impressive haul
of treasure, including an unsurpassed collection of former Ethiopian rulers' crowns and a
dazzling display of gold and silver chalices, crosses, jewellery and even drums. It clearly
demonstrates the immense wealth of the Church. Museum guides expect a tip.
Also of historical interest, beyond the gate in front of the old church, are the throne
stones Offline map where local nobles were coronated.
Finally, in between the old and new churches, is the real reason for most people's devo-
tion: a tiny, carefully guarded chapel that houses what most Ethiopians believe is the le-
gendary Ark of the Covenant Offline map . For more on the Ark and the Ethiopian claim to
it, Click here . Don't think you can take a peek: just one specially chosen guardian has ac-
cess to the Ark. Nobody else is allowed in the chapel and foreigners aren't even allowed
to approach the fence guarding the chapel grounds because previously some foreigners
tried to scale the fence and rush into the chapel! No matter what you think of the legend,
there's no denying that to be in this church compound during a major service or festival,
when thousands of pilgrims pour into the city, is an experience of pure devotion and faith
that that will leave you spellbound.
Note that the building currently has a leaky roof and the ark may be moved, at least
temporarily.

CHURCH

Arabtu Ensessa Church
The 'Four Beasts' Church, named after the writers of the Biblical Gospels, was rebuilt in
the 1950s and is worth a look for the wonderful murals (most modern, but a few old) cov-
ering nearly every inch of the interior. The saints and angels on the ceiling are particularly
delightful. Though it has its own gate, entry is included with the St Mary of Zion churches
ticket.

Tombs of Kings Kaleb & Gebre Meskel

TOMBS