Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Although none still stand, there are several large stelae in the field east of Enda Iyesus church. The most not-
able boasts decoration near the top, and is sometimes called the
unique stele
. The large relief of a house-like ob-
ject, formed by a rectangle surmounted by a triangle is claimed by some to be early proof of Aksum's claim to
house the Ark of the Covenant.
Gudit Stelae Field
Though they're far less arresting than those found in the centre of town, the stelae in the Gudit Stelae Field are
still worth a visit.
Named after Queen Gudit (see Aksum's Fall,
Click here
), most stelae in this field are small, undressed and lie
on the ground. Locals suggest the largest stele, alongside the road to the east, marks the Queen of Sheba's grave.
But, neither of these associations are possible since the stelae date to the 2nd century AD.
Despite excavations in the 1970s and 1990s, little is known about the field. Though some mark graves, neither
rock-hewn nor constructed tombs have been found. Finds here did include a set of fine 3rd-century glass goblets,
which has led scholars to suggest the area was the burial site of Aksumite society's lesser nobles.
The entire field is cropland so from June into October you can only walk on the footpath through the middle
and along the road.
Dr Neville Chittick once described Aksum (often incorrectly spelled Axum) as 'the last
of the great civilisations of Antiquity to be revealed to modern knowledge'. Yet even
today, despite being one of the most important ancient sites in sub-Saharan Africa, this
Unesco World Heritage Site has revealed only a tiny fraction of its secrets, and an explor-
ation of its ruined tombs and palaces is sure to light a spark of excitement.
Aksum is more than just a collection of lifeless ruins, though. Proudly Tigrian, the town
remains rural at heart and has a vibrancy, life and continuing national importance very
rarely found at ancient sites. Pilgrims still journey here in the thousands to pay homage at
its great churches and what they have no doubt is the magical Ark of the Covenant.
History
The early history of Aksum, like most Ethiopian history, is shrouded in such a fog of le-
gend that the truth remains largely unknown. While debate continues between historians
and the majority of Ethiopians about whether or not Aksum really was the Queen of
Sheba's capital in the 10th century BC, what's certain is that a high civilisation started to
rise here as early as 400 BC.
By the 1st century AD, Greek merchants knew Aksum as a great city and the powerful
capital of an extensive empire. For close to 1000 years, Aksum dominated the vital sea-
borne trade between Africa and Asia and the kingdom was numbered among the ancient
world's greatest states. But then, quite suddenly, the power of Aksum collapsed and the
city turned into a forgotten backwater. Only now, a millennium later, are archaeologists
