Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
AKSUM & THE FAR NORTH
Despite its captivating mix of influential historical sights and small-town life, Aksum is the
place most likely to be skipped on shortened versions of Historical Circuit tours, but if you
have the time, don't miss it. From mountaintop monasteries to underground tombs, there's
a fantastic mix of history and adventure.
Shire
POP 57,200 / ELEV 595M
The sun-blinded and dusty town of Shire, marked on some maps as Inda Selassie, is of in-
terest to travellers only because it provides a link with Aksum, 60km to the east.
If you get stuck in Shire (very possible if you arrive here after 5pm) there are some de-
cent places to sleep. The Gebar Shire Hotel ( 0344-443427;
www.gebarshirehotel.com ; d without bathroom Birr240, d incl breakfast Birr477-720, tw
Birr653; ) is an almost-flash hotel on the main roundabout in the centre of town; the
only thing to criticise is the high faranji price. The lunch-stop of choice for most tour oper-
ators is Africa Hotel ( 0344-440101; d without bathroom Birr105, d & tw Birr125-155,
mains Birr25-95; ) because the food is decent and it tends to come quickly. The rooms
are less popular because they're loud and some have an odour, but they outshine the com-
petition at this price. The National Hotel ( 0912-086151; d without bathroom Birr40, d
Birr58; ) behind the bus station has ragged cold-shower rooms at a fair price.
There are a few buses and many minibuses (Birr23, 1½ hours) to Aksum and one morn-
ing bus to Gonder (Birr120, 10 to 11 hours, 5.30am). Travel times to Gonder will drop con-
siderably as road paving progresses.
AKSUM'S FALL
After Aksum lost its grip on the Red Sea trade due to the rise of Islamic Arabs' fortunes, the society quickly im-
ploded and sent Ethiopia into the dark ages for five centuries. Why this happened when it was still rich in natural
resources is the subject of many theories.
The environmental argument suggests that Aksum's ever-increasing population led to overcropping of the land,
deforestation and eventually soil erosion. The climatic explanation claims that a slight 'global warming' took place,
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