Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Getting Around
There's no shortage of boat operators in Bahir Dar, and shifty commission agents lurk
everywhere. People who've been happiest have booked boats through their hotel or the
travel agencies listed earlier; also
Click here
.
You could save money organising boats
yourself at the landings across from Bahir Dar University along the Gonder road, but few
of the pilots speak English.
Prices are always negotiable, but the standard half-day tour to the Zege Peninsula,
nearby island monasteries and the outlet of the Blue Nile costs Birr800 for a group of five
people in a fibreglass boat with a 25HP engine. A short trip to Debre Maryam and the out-
let is just Birr300 while a full-day trip out to distant islands will likely cost Birr2400. Al-
ways ask if a guide is included in the cost. Although last-minute arrangements are pos-
sible, it's best to arrange things the day before.
Before departing, ensure your boat has life jackets (demand to see them; don't take any-
one's word for it) and spare fuel.
A ferry to the Zege Peninsula (Birr54) departs Bahir Dar at 7am (come at 6.30am to
buy tickets) arriving at the landing near Ura Kidane Meret monastery around 8am and
Afaf village 15 minutes later. It departs Afaf at 4pm. There are also a few minibuses to
Afaf (Birr12, 1½ hours), the last returning to Bahir Dar around 4pm.
Blue Nile Falls (Tis Abay)
The Blue Nile looks like a sluggish beast as it meanders out of Lake Tana, but not far out
of Bahir Dar you'll see the Nile in a very different mood. The river pours over the side of
a sheer 42m-tall chasm and explodes into a melange of mists and rainbows (best at 10am)
before continuing on its tumultuous path to Khartoum where it finally gets to kiss the
White Nile.
The catch to this impressive scene is that hydroelectric projects upstream have stolen
most of the energy from
Tis Abay
(adult/student/child Birr30/20/free, personal video
cameras Birr50, mandatory guide Birr60, over 5 people Birr120; 7am-5.30pm)
, the
'Nile that Smokes'. Though far smaller than its natural 400m-wide flow, the three-
pronged waterfall is still jaw-droppingly huge in August and September. From around
January or February until March it's now known as 'Blue Nile Shower' and it's not really
worth a visit. The in-between time is still beautiful enough that most people enjoy the trip;
though note that one of the hydro plants only operates on standby and if it's turned on dur-
