Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
LIVING LIKE A PLANTER
A couple of days sinking G&Ts on the verandah of a beautiful old planter's home makes an atmospheric start (or
end) to a hike up Mt Mulanje. Following are some of our suggestions.
The
Lujeri Tea Estate
Offline map
( 01-460243, 01-460266)
sits at the base of Mt Mulanje between
Mulanje town and Muloza and is reached by a winding dirt road that makes its way up past estate workers'
houses, avenues of tall pines and acres of bright-green tea. After the main gates you'll reach the
Lujeri Guest
House
Offline map
(s/d US$60/80, whole house US$190, sleeps 10; )
, a quaint old planters' home with
high ceilings, a wide cool verandah, chintzy central lounge with fireplace, and a small swimming pool shaded by
trees and moss-covered rocks. A stay at neighbouring
Lujeri Lodge
Offline map
(whole house US$200, sleeps
10; )
, a larger and grander version of the Guest House, is like stepping back in time. It's a classic colonial tin-
roofed affair; you can almost hear the tinkling of laughter and jazz piano as you're lounging on the enormous
wraparound verandah. The gardens are an explosion of lush plants and flowers and there's a large swimming pool
and miniature tennis court should you wish to be active. The staff at both lodges can direct you to beautiful walks
in the shadow of the mountain.
Stunning
Huntingdon House
( 01-794555;
www.satemwa.com
;
r incl breakfast/full board from US$105/
175; )
sits on the Satemwa Tea Estate (
Click here
)
near the small town of Thyolo. Built in
1936 by Scottish planters with Francophile tendencies, this one-storey dame exudes charm and elegance, from its
doric columns and porticoes, to its stone fireplaces and silver candlebra. Stepping inside is like passing into an old
French chateau, and add to this the finely calibrated service and it really does feel as if you've travelled back to
colonial days. The house is operated by Ulendo Travel Group (
Click here
)
and the original family who first
settled here, and bedrooms are individually finished with four-posters, comfy couches, step-through mozzie nets,
rain showers and roaring fires. Our favourite room was the exquisitely chandeliered dining room. Outside, the
garden is an Eden of silvery oaks, poplar and gum trees, and home to some 60 species of birds. Within the
2000-hectare plantation coffee, tea, blue gum and Guatemala grass all grow, and cattle are farmed; the best way to
see it is by borrowing one of the lodge's bikes. Horse riding and walking trails are also available.
Information
Hiking on Mt Mulanje is controlled by the
Likhubula Forestry Office
(PO Box 50, Mu-
lanje; 7.30am-noon & 1-5pm)
, at the small village of Likhubula, about 15km north of
Mulanje town. Entry fees are MK100 per person; vehicle entry fee costs MK200 and the
forestry office car park is MK100 a day. The friendly and helpful staff can arrange guides
and porters from an official list. You must register here and make reservations for the
mountain huts (you can also call or write in advance). Camping is permitted only near
huts and only when they're full. Open fires are not allowed - this is especially important
during the latter part of the dry season when there is a serious fire risk. The collecting of
plants and animals is forbidden.
