Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Venice Beach Backpackers $
( 0844-16541; campsite per person MK800, dm MK2000, r MK4000; )
Cool
and very rough-and-ready rooms can be found in this beachside backpacker joint about
1.5km from the main road. Hammock flop, fraternise with the locals or kayak (MK5000)
or dive if you feel like it (non-PADI certified). You can also spear fish. Aside from this
there are drumming classes, beach volleyball and a reggae-fuelled bar.
The two-storey, thatched building has a selection of dorms and doubles as well as a top-
floor viewing deck with plenty of hammocks. There are also a couple of chalets next to
the main building. You can buy good meals here (snacks MK400, dinner and lunch
MK850).
HOSTEL
Getting There & Away
From Lilongwe, AXA buses go to Monkey Bay, usually via Mua and the southern
lakeshore (MK1800, four hours). From Lilongwe you're probably better off going by
minibus to Salima (MK1500, one hour), from where you might find a minibus or
matola
going direct to Monkey Bay.
It's much easier to reach Monkey Bay from Blantyre on the ordinary bus that travels via
Liwonde and Mangochi (MK2500, five to six hours). A quicker option is to go by minibus
(MK2500, four to five hours), but you'll need to leave early in the morning and you might
have to change at Mangochi. Many travellers also use the
Ilala
ferry to travel up and
down the country to or from Monkey Bay.
From Monkey Bay, a
matola
ride to Cape Maclear should cost MK600. Although not
far away, it can take forever to get there and you could have to wait hours for a
matola
de-
parture. To Mangochi, a minibus costs around MK600 and the AXA bus MK550.
Cape Maclear
A long stretch of powder-fine sand bookended by mountains and lapped by dazzling wa-
ter, Cape Maclear deserves all the hype thrown at it. By day the bay glitters a royal blue,
studded by nearby islands and puttering, crayon-coloured fishing boats. On shore women
wash clothes, dry fish, and nautical types spread out vermilion nets to dry. And there's
bags of things to do aside from lotus eating on a hammock, be it kayaking, sailing, snor-
