Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
school block. The lodge sits at elevation above the Bua River, and a well-worn elephant
crossing. Its thatched, near church-high lodge is a Herculean feat in itself; with a mezzan-
ine walkway leading to an aerial viewpoint - the perfect place to balance a G&T with
your binoculars.
Come late afternoon, elephants come to the water, while other regular visitors include
baboons, and you may even hear the occasional lion. Activities include flyfishing and
conventional fishing (when the Bua River is running strong), and kayaking upstream with
a coolbox of sundowner Greens (scant reward after being scared witless by crocs watch-
ing you like periscopes!).
Crafted from local materials, huge chalets include plunge baths, marble basins, rain
showers, natural ventilation and wrought-iron doors that protect though fully immerse you
in the widescreen views at your door. All activities are included. The management is
lovely.
Tongole is situated 160km (a three-hour drive) from Lilongwe Airport, and has just also
opened its own airstrip for private charters. For more information contact
Ulendo Airlink
(
01-794555;
www.ulendo.net
; 441 Chilanga Drive, Area 10)
.
LODGE, CAMPGROUND
Bua River Lodge $$$
( 0888-03981, 0990-476887; island/riverside tents US$115/95, hillside rooms US$75,
basic rooms not incl dinner US$17; )
Run by likeable Englishman (and Eric
Sykes lookalike) John, this place - perched on the edge of a very beautiful boulder-strewn
section of the Bua River - is an adult Neverland. By night, flickering parrafin trails deter
nosy wildlife and snake their way to beautiful safari tents kitted out with alfresco rain
showers, African chic decor, thick duvets and locally carved chairs.
The main prize though goes to the central lodge; crafted from eucalyptus trunks, it's a
multilevel, thatched, open-sided affair. Up top, the verandah is good for spotting animals,
there's a decent book exchange, and the restaurant serves up tenderised steaks, pasta
dishes and cutlets marinated in red wine, by candlelight. Three-course dinner is included
in the price. It's probable you'll see crocs, lots of them, on the sandbars next to the river.
Better still is to take a free morning or pre-sunset safari walk, in the company of a guard,
to the cascades (2km). You may also see vervet monkeys, elephants, baboons, bushbucks
and khudus.
The turn-off to Bua is 10km north of Nkhotakota town, followed by a rough dirt track.
You will need your own wheels to get here. You could also enter the park from the south
via the very potholed Nkhotakota- Kasungu road. Axa buses headed from Mzuzu can
drop you off at the park gate (ask to be dropped at the Lozi Trading centre) then call John
