Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
MK250;
7am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8am-12.30pm Sat & Sun)
.
Dangers & Annoyances
Travellers have been attacked and robbed when walking outside the town centre (in par-
ticular to and from Chikale Beach at night), so take extra care when walking this route as
it can be quite deserted. Most travellers will encounter a fair amount of hassle from local
beach boys offering a bewildering amount of services, from beach barbecues to personal-
ised key rings. If you're not interested, be polite but very firm and they should leave you
alone.
Getting There & Away
All buses and minibuses go from the bus stand on the main road. AXA buses run to
Mzuzu (MK800, two hours) and minibuses run to Nkhotakota (MK1000, five hours), Ch-
intheche (MK600, one hour) and Mzuzu (MK700, one to two hours). To reach Lilongwe
the quickest option is to go to Mzuzu and transfer bus.
Many travellers also come or go on the
Ilala
ferry which arrives at 1am on Sunday then
heads for Ruarwe and Usisya at 7am. On Monday it returns at 1pm to head south that day
at 8pm for Likoma and Chizumulu Islands. Various transport boats also go to the above is-
lands; ask at the harbour office for more info.
Around Nkhata Bay
North of Nkhata Bay, the steep slopes of the Rift Valley escarpment plunge straight down
to the lake and there's no room for a road alongside the shore. The isolated villages along
this stretch provide a remote experience that is well worth the hike.
Fifteen kilometres north of the village of Usisya is
Zulukhuni River Lodge
(
0995-636701, 0999-492774; campsite US$4, dm US$8, chalets US$13, stone house
US$16)
, a gorgeous hideaway barely visible from the water. Stone-and-thatch chalets
teeter over the water, backed by a wild, jungly garden, and there's an impressive bar and
restaurant area nestled underneath the curve of a cliff. A troop of fish eagles, kingfishers
and otters regularly entertain guests and there are plenty of walks to the nearby river and
waterfall to be had.
