Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Nyika National Park
Accessed by a rough road, Malawi's oldest reserve is easily one of the most magical ex-
periences in any trip to the country. Turning burnt amber in the afternoon sun, the high-
land grass flickers with the stripes of zebras and is punctuated by glittering boulders that
look like set dressing from a
Star Trek
movie. Towering at over 2500m above sea level,
3200 sq km
Nyika National Park
(per person/car US$5/2; 6am-6pm)
is enigmatic;
one moment its rolling grasslands remind of the Yorkshire Dales, but then an antelope
leaps across your bonnet, you note the nearby mound of steaming elephant spore and you
remember you're in Africa (and that Nyika is home to a very large population of leo-
pards!).
There are plenty of zebras, bushbucks, reedbucks, roan antelopes and elephants and you
may also spot elands, warthogs, klipspringers, jackals, duikers and possibly hyenas and
leopards (one until recently could be seen at Chelinda Camp's lake in the morning, taking
a drink; between playing voyeur outside chalet windows!). Twitchers should note that
more than 400 species of bird have been recorded, including rarities such as the wattled
crane and moustached green-tinkerbirds. And after the wet season, the landscape bursts
into life in a blaze of wildflowers. There are around 200 species of orchid alone growing
on the plateau.
Rather than just driving around in a safari vehicle, you can explore on a mountain bike,
ramble through the hills on foot or simply sit down by a gin-clear stream for a spot of
fishing. But who knows for how much longer you'll be able to do this on your own, for in
2013, lions (and possibly cheetahs) are due for reintroduction, which will add brilliantly to
the drama.
It can get surprisingly cold on the Nyika Plateau, especially at night from June to
August when frost is not uncommon. Log fires are provided in the chalets and rooms, but
bring a warm sleeping bag if you're camping. During dry periods, sectors of the park are
burnt to prevent larger fires later in the season. Before setting off for drives or walks, in-
quire at the park headquarters too find out about areas that are being burnt.
