Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Don't attempt this in anything but a 4WD and never in rain - it's just not worth the risk,
as your nerves will be frayed even in dry conditions. Better still is to ask Mick at the
Mushroom Farm to come and get you from Chitimba, or walk the 2½ hour, 15km trip up
the mountain, leaving your bag in the lock-up room at Chitimba Campsite. There's no bus,
and you'll wait a very long time if you're hitching. Take care on this road though; isolated
incidents of muggings have occurred so it's best to check the latest situation before you
set off, or take a local guide from Chitimba Campsite.
The other way to reach Livingstonia, especially if you're coming from the south, is to
drive up the dirt road from Rumphi, for which you'll also need a 4WD - that said, it's an
easy, dusty and very pretty drive. It's also possible to get a truck up this route, which
leaves at 2pm on Tuesdays and Thursdays from outside the Peoples Supermarket in
Rumphi and takes about five hours.
A third option is to walk to Livingstonia from the Nyika Plateau, which can by done
through Chelinda Camp or the Mushroom Farm.
Rumphi
Rumphi ( rum -pee), west of the main road between Mzuzu and Karonga and backdropped
by hills, is an authentic but forgettable little town. There's a couple of Visa-friendly
ATMs, restaurants, a supermarket and a clutch of guesthouses if you get stuck here en
route to Nyika National Park, Vwaza Marsh Wildlife Reserve or Livingstonia.
Sleeping & Eating
LODGE
Matunkha Eco-Tourism $$$
( 0888-202643, 0888-293424; campsite per person MK500, dm MK6500, s/d chalets
MK7500/9000; ) This friendly lodge and orphanage is 3km out of town on the main
road to Nyika National Park. You can relax in the pleasant restaurant and bar between vo-
lunteering. There are simple en suite rondavels (traditional-style huts) here as well as
dorms and camping, and all of the profits go towards the orphanage and other community
projects. Long-term teachers are welcome.
Country Resthouse $
GUESTHOUSE
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