Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Quissanga, most vehicles continue on to Tandanhangue village (Mtc200 from Pemba),
5km further, which is the departure point for dhows to Ibo (Mtc50). In a private car, the
trip to Quissanga and Tandanhangue takes about 3½ hours. For drivers (4WD), there's se-
cure parking at Gringo's (James') Place next to the Tandanhangue dhow port for Mtc100
per day.
Dhows leave Tandanhangue only at high tide (with a window of about two hours on
either side of the high-tide point), and non-motorised boats take from one to six hours to
Ibo (about 45 minutes with motor). There's no accommodation in Tandanhangue. Charter-
ing a motorised boat for yourself to Ibo will cost about Mtc1500 one way. Kaskazini (
Click here
)
in Pemba offers road transfers between Pemba and Tandanhangue followed
by a motorboat transfer to Ibo for US$270 one-way for up to four people.
Dhows to Quirimba Island depart from Quissanga. Alternatively, you can inquire with
Pensão Quirimba about space on their boat.
For overnight sailing charters from Pemba direct to the islands, contact Kaskazini.
IBO ISLAND
Ibo, the best-known of the Quirimbas islands, is an enchanting place. Its quiet streets are
lined with dilapidated villas and crumbling, moss-covered buildings, and echo with the si-
lent, hollow footsteps of bygone centuries. Architecturally it is more open than Mozambi-
que Island, although its ambience is more insulated and its pace more subdued. The best
time to visit is during a clear, moonlit night, when the old colonial houses take on a haunt-
ing, almost surreal aspect.
Ibo was fortified as early as 1609 and by the late-18th century had become the most im-
portant town in Mozambique outside of Mozambique Island. During this era the island
was a major export point in the slave trade, with demand spurred by French sugar planta-
tion owners on Mauritius and elsewhere. In the late-19th century, it served briefly as
headquarters for the Niassa Company. However, in 1904, the headquarters were relocated
to Pemba (then Porto Amelia) to take advantage of Pemba's better sea access routes and
harbour, and Ibo faded into oblivion.
At the island's northern end is the star-shaped
Fort of São João
(per person Mtc50;
7am-4pm)
, which was built in 1791 and designed to accommodate up to 300 people. In
the days when Ibo was linked into the slave trade, the fort's dark, cramped lower cham-
bers were used as slave holding points. Today it's known for the
silver artisans
who have
set up shop near the entrance. Much of the silver used is made from melted-down coins
and is often of inferior quality, but the distinctive and refined Swahili artisanship is among
the best in the region. Inside is also the small but fascinating
Maritime Museum
(Museu
