Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
The still-getting-started
Zalala Beach Lodge
( 84-390 1630, 24-217055;
www.zalalabeach.com
; s/d from
Mtc3750/5625; )
, about 100m back from a lovely stretch of beach, is 12km north of Zalala and accessed via
a signposted, sandy track (4WD only). It is out of the way and a bit misplaced in the middle of nowhere, but rooms
are very comfortable and well-appointed and meals are tasty. As there's nothing else around, half- or full board
packages are recommended.
Chapas
to Zalala (Mtc25, one hour) depart Quelimane from next to the central market.
Pebane
About 280km northeast of Quelimane is Pebane, a fishing port and popular holiday des-
tination during colonial times, and today a faded, quiet town near a long beach.
The South African-run
Pebane Fishing Charters
( 82-950 2605, 84-766 0037, in
South Africa 034-414 1058;
www.pebane.com
;
per person full board Mtc2870; )
has
seven well-maintained, beach-facing stone-and-thatch cottages with hot water, and a res-
taurant.
Pebane is reached in slow stages by public transport, or with a 4WD. The best route
from Quelimane is via Malei (95km north of Quelimane on the Nampula road), from
where it's about 200km further on a dirt road via Olinga and Mucubela. A good option
from Pebane northwards is along a bush track (4WD) via the Gilé National Reserve to
Gilé village and on to Alto Ligonha, from where it is straightforward to continue on to
Nampula.
Gilé National Reserve
Prior to the war, the 2100-sq-km Gilé National Reserve (Reserva Nacional de Gilé) was
home to elephants, buffaloes and other wildlife. It's now being rehabilitated with French
development assistance. According to recent surveys, there are still small populations of
buffaloes, elephants, sable antelopes, leopards and other mammals.
The best road access is via Pebane or Alto Molócuè. Camping is possible near Mulela
(Mualama) on the reserve's southwestern corner and in Musseia, and there is camping and
basic tented accommodation inside the reserve at
Camp Lice
(campsite per person
Mtc300, d tent Mtc1500)
on the Lice River.
