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, with well-appointed stone-and-thatch cottages, budget rooms sharing bathroom and a
restaurant with lovely views over the river. Birdwatching, river trips, forest walks and oth-
er excursions can be arranged.
Chapas go daily between Caia and Sena. Tolls at the Armando Emílio Guebuza bridge
over the Zambezi River at Caia are Mtc80/100 for small/large vehicles.
Marromeu
Marromeu is an old sugar-growing centre beside the Zambezi River, dating back to the
late-19th century when the Portuguese Sugar Society of East Africa built a plantation and
sugar factory here. After years of neglect, the factory has been rehabilitated under Mauri-
tian ownership, and is now Mozambique's largest sugar processing mill.
About 45km upriver from Marromeu, and easily accessed with 4WD from Caia, is
Chupanga Mission , where Mary Moffat, wife of the missionary and explorer David Liv-
ingstone, is buried. She died here on 17 April 1862.
South of Marromeu begin the extensive wetlands of the Zambezi River delta, home to a
wealth of water birds, including wattled crane, flamingo and pelican. On the coast is the
Marromeu Special Reserve (Reserva Especial de Marromeu), which was formerly
known for its vast herds of buffalo - put by some estimates at about 55,000 in the 1970s.
Today only a fraction of that number remain, although plans are underway for restocking.
The reserve is also home to populations of waterbuck, sable antelope, zebra and ele-
phant, as well as rich levels of birdlife, with the highest density of waterbirds in Mozam-
bique. In 2004, it was proclaimed as a 'wetland of international importance' under the
Ramsar convention.
In Marromeu town, basic accommodation is available. It's better, however, to base
yourself at Catapu and explore from there. Chapas go daily to Marromeu from both In-
hamitanga and Caia.
Quelimane
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Bustling Quelimane is the capital of Mozambique's densely populated Zambézia province
and heartland of the Chuabo people. While lacking the architectural charm of some other
Mozambican towns - with the exception of the abandoned Portuguese cathedral near
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