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has rooms (some with air-con), well-equipped self-catering chalets with fans, nets and mi-
crowaves, a shop selling a few basics, a resident parrot, meals with advance notice, and
among the cleanest bathrooms along this stretch of the coastal road.
Inhambane
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With its serene waterside setting, tree-lined avenues, faded colonial-style architecture and
mixture of Arabic, Indian and African influences, Inhambane is one of Mozambique's
most charming towns and well worth a visit. It has a history that reaches back at least 10
centuries, making it one of the oldest settlements along the coast. Today Inhambane is the
capital of Inhambane province, although it's completely lacking in any sort of bustle or
pretence. It is also the gateway to a fine collection of beaches, including Tofo and Barra.
History
As early as the 11th century, Inhambane served as a port of call for Arabic traders sailing
along the East African coast. Textiles were an important commodity, and by the time the
Portuguese arrived in the early-16th century, the area boasted a well-established cotton-
spinning industry. In 1560 Inhambane was chosen as the site of the first Jesuit mission to
the region. Development was also helped along by Inhambane's favourable location on a
sheltered bay, and before long it had moved into the limelight as a bustling ivory trading
port. By the early-18th century, the Portuguese had established themselves here, together
with traders from India. This mixture of Indian, Christian and Muslim influences contin-
ued to characterise Inhambane's development in later years, and is still notable today.
In the coming decades, the focus of trade shifted from cloth and ivory to slaves. By the
mid-18th century, an estimated 1500 slaves were passing through Inhambane's port each
year, and this human trafficking had become the town's economic mainstay.
In 1834 Inhambane was ravaged by the army of the Gaza chief, Soshangane. However,
it soon recovered to again become one of the largest towns in the country. The abolition of
the slave trade in the late-19th century dealt Inhambane's economy a sharp blow. The situ-
ation worsened in the early-20th century as economic focus in the region shifted south-
ward to Lourenço Marques (now Maputo). Many businesses moved south or closed, and
Inhambane began a gradual decline from which it still has not recovered.
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