Mozambique - Zambia, Mozambique and Malawi - page 351

ting a seat can be a challenge. Wait by the Pôr do Sol complex or, better, take a chapa to
the pontinha (bridge control post) , where all traffic needs to stop.
To Xai-Xai Beach (Mtc5), chapas depart from the praça transport stand, or catch them
anywhere along the main road. They run at least to the roundabout, about 700m uphill
from the beach, and sometimes further.
Around Xai-Xai
The lagoon-studded coast north and south of Xai-Xai has a string of attractive beaches -
all quiet, except during South African school holidays. The area is particularly suited to
travellers with their own vehicle, as many of the lodges are located well off the N1, al-
though some offer transfers.
The beach is particularly lovely at Chidenguele , about 70km north of Xai-Xai and just
5km off the N1 down an easy access road. The coast here is fringed by high, vegetated
dunes stretching into the horizon in each direction. There's also an old lighthouse ,
reached via an unsignposted sandy track off the Chidenguele access road, and climbable
when the keeper is around. Chidenguele village is notable for its large cathedral
Offline map Google map (visible from the N1), its bakery and its small market. About 12km
north along the beach is King's Pool - a sheltered tidal pool that is ideal for snorkelling,
and for fishing from the outer reef.
Paraíso de Chidenguele ( 84-390 9999; www.chidbeachresort.com ; 'overnight' r
per person US$36, 2-/4-/6-person chalets US$85/121/204; ) is a lovely place with ac-
commodation in simple, twin-bed 'overnight' rooms, or in spacious, well-equipped self-
catering cottages - some with stunning views over the sea, others nestled in the coastal
forest. There's a restaurant-bar and a large, sparkling clean swimming pool. It's ideal for
families. It also rents snorkelling equipment for trips to King's Pool.
Well south of here - south of Xai-Xai and about 7km north of Bilene - is another lovely
stretch of beach, and the pleasant Zongoene Lodge ( 282-42003, in South Africa
015-295 9038; www.zongoene.com ; campsite per person US$16, d US$156, 4-person
self-catering house from US$235; ) . It's just south of the mouth of the Limpopo River
with spacious 'pool chalets', or more rustic self-catering houses set back from the beach.
There's also camping, a restaurant and an array of activities including fishing and sunset
cruises on the Limpopo River. The turn-off is about 15km south of Xai-Xai at Chicum-
bane, from where it's about 35km further down a sandy track that can be negotiated by
2WD during the dry months.