Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
THE ROCK ART OF KASAMA
Archaeologists rate the
Kasama rock art
(admission adult/child US$15/7, campsite per person US$10)
as one of
the largest and most significant collections of ancient art in Southern Africa, although it has to be said that in
terms of quality, pictures found in Zimbabwe or Namibia are easier for casual visitors to appreciate.
The works are attributed to Stone Age hunter-gatherers (sometimes known as Twa) and are up to 2000 years
old. Many are abstract designs but some of the finest pictographs show human figures and animals, often captur-
ing a remarkable sense of fluidity and movement, despite being stylised with huge bodies and minute limbs.
The paintings (about 700 in all) are in caves and overhangs spread over a very wide area of bush about 7km
east of Kasama, on the road towards Isoka. The most famous site is called Sumina, and here you scramble up a
steep path and squeeze between boulders to reach a well-preserved picture of a hunter chasing a lion and a buf-
falo. At the Mwela site, the pictures are mainly geometric patterns: spirals, circles, 'ladders' and rows of dots, al-
though one picture shows an antelope and four figures, supposedly in a trance. The Mwankole site has a mix of
designs, including a group of dancing people, plus the famous (and remarkably lifelike) penis image. Other pat-
terns have been likened to female genitalia, leading archaeologists to propose that these paintings were connected
to fertility rites, while the dots and stipple may symbolise hope for good rains.
Without a vehicle, the easiest way to reach the paintings area is by taxi (about ZMW35 each way, plus waiting
time). About 4.5km from Kasama is a signpost for 'Mwela Rocks National Monument' with an entry kiosk and
guides to escort visitors.
Mbala
0214
Once the colonial centre of Abercorn, this sleepy town sits on the periphery of the Great
Rift Valley. From here the road drops about 1000m from the highest settlement in Zambia
down to Lake Tanganyika and Mpulungu, the lowest town in the country. Today, the only
reason to visit is the Moto Moto Museum, or as a stop-off point for Kalambo Falls. In
practical terms, there's a Barclays Bank ATM, a post office, a fuel station and some gener-
al stores.
Sights & Activities
Moto Moto Museum
(admission ZMW15; 9am-4.45pm)
This mu- seum is well worth a visit if you're in the
area. It has a large and diverse collection, much of which details the cultural life and his-
tory of the Bemba people. Items on display here include old Bemba drums, traditional
MUSEUM
