Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
NORTHERN ZAMBIA
Those with a spirit of adventure and who love wild, open spaces will be at home in Zam-
bia's untamed north. True, it can be difficult to get around as the distances are vast and the
tracks often rough once you leave the main road, but this is all part of the experience.
Topping the list of attractions are Kasanka National Park, where you can camp by the
side of a river and watch sitatungas splashing in the swamps at dawn from high up in a ma-
hogany tree; Mutinondo Wilderness, a vast area of whaleback hills, rivers and valleys so
untouched you feel almost like you have been transported to a prehistoric era; and striking
Shiwa Ng'andu, a grand English mansion buried deep in the Zambian bush with a relaxing
hot springs on tap.
Northern Zambia starts after the 'Pedicle,' the slice of DRC territory that juts sharply in-
to Zambia, almost splitting it in two. From here onwards the old Great North Road shoots
its way straight up to Tanzania, passing national parks, vast wilderness areas and waterfalls
along the way. With your own vehicle there's a lot to be discovered here, but it can be a
challenge using public transport as most of the headline acts lie beyond the highway.
WATERFALL COLLECTING
Northern Zambia is packed full of rivers and sweeping hills. Put these together and you get an incredible array of
waterfalls. The following list is organised roughly clockwise. For more inspiration see
Waterfalls of Zambia
by
François d'Elbee; it's a large-format book with evocative descriptions and a collection of stunning photos.
It has to be said that this is mainly an undertaking for drivers, as nearly all the falls are off the main routes, away
from public transport, but for backpackers, Chisimba and Kalambo waterfalls are reachable. Fortunately, these are
among the most impressive.
Most waterfalls are protected as heritage sites or National Monuments, and even at the most remote locations a
caretaker may appear from the bush to collect a fee. With National Monument fees now set at an ambitious US$15
per person, plus US$15 for a vehicle, waterfall visits have become an expensive proposition. At some waterfalls,
camping is permitted (US$10), although facilities are usually limited to a long-drop toilet.
Kundalila Falls
These are the most southerly falls, about 15km south of the Great North Road, between Serenje and Mpika. Here,
the Lukusashi River tumbles about 60m, almost diagonally over steeply tilting rock strata, before rushing away
down a narrow ravine. There's a campsite here.
Ntumbachusi Falls
About 15km west of Kawambwa, between Mansa and Lake Mweru, Ntumbachusi is a small but very picturesque
waterfall, with little cascades and pools upstream and down. Camping is possible.