Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Despite a network of tracks, Liuwa is serious 4WD territory; a lot of the tracks are very
sandy, wet or both. Although the trackless, featureless, endless plains appear benign, it's
also very easy to get lost. Taking a scout with you is highly recommended and also finan-
cially assists the national park; this can be organised at the park headquarters.
Senanga
If you're coming from Lusaka, Senanga has a real 'end of the line' feel - although the
main street can be surprisingly lively, especially in the evening, and the views of the Zam-
bezi are beautiful. It is the best place to break up a journey between Mongu and Ngonye
(Sioma) Falls or Sesheke.
The best accommodation option is
Senanga Safaris
( 0217-230156; campsite per
person ZMW30, d incl breakfast US$60)
. It offers comfortable
rondavels
with splendid
views over the Zambezi plains - spoiled only by the giant satellite TV dish in the garden.
The bar sells cold beer and the restaurant serves expensive meals. Several cheaper restaur-
ants are dotted along the main street nearby. Be warned that you may have difficulty get-
ting accommodation when it hosts an annual fishing competition over a few days in the
dry season.
Minibuses and pick-ups run between Senanga and Mongu (ZMW25, 2½ hours) several
times a day. About 30km south of Senanga, the pontoon ferry (passengers free, 2/4WD
vehicles ZMW100/150) across the Zambezi to the tiny settlement of Kalongola (marked
as Sitoti on some maps, but this is a separate village about 5km south of Kalongola) on
the west bank of the river is being replaced by a bridge, which is likely to be finished by
early 2013. From here, a recently tarred road continues south towards Sesheke and Nami-
bia.
Sioma & Ngonye Falls
The village of Sioma is about 60km southeast of Kalongola. It has a large mission, a row
of shops, and that's about it. The only reason to come here is
Ngonye Falls
(Sioma Falls;
admission free; 24hr)
, a 1km-wide chain of waterfalls, rapids and rocky islands cut-
ting across the Zambezi River. It's beautiful and very impressive and would be a major at-
traction if it wasn't so difficult to reach. Imagine something almost as majestic as Victoria
Falls, but with almost no other person (local or foreign) in sight.
