Zambia - Zambia, Mozambique and Malawi - page 160

Head west along the main road from Lusaka until about 10km before Kafue Hook
Bridge (or 82km from Nalusanga Gate) and look for the signposted turn-off to the south.
Heading west along the main road from Lusaka, you'll find a main track leading into the
northern sector of the park on the western side of Kafue Hook Bridge.
There's no public transport in the park, but you could easily catch a Mongu-bound
Juldan or Shalom bus from Lusaka (ZMW100, three hours, 8am) to the highway stop near
Mukambi Safari Lodge (contact Mukambi for pick up; only a couple hundred metres
away wildlife roams free) or Mayukuyuku (arrange pick-up from the highway for a fee).
For a ride back to Lusaka, wait out by Hook Bridge or the stop by Mukambi between
11am and 11.30am.
Alternatively, take the slow daily bus, or one of the more regular minibuses from Lu-
saka to Itezhitezhi village (ZMW75, six hours). From the village bus stop wait around for
a lift (because of the number of wild animals it's not safe to hike).
Kaoma
Kaoma is a busy little town about 80km west of Kafue National Park. It's a good place to
fill up with petrol (two stations) and not a bad spot to break a journey from Lusaka out to
the far west of Zambia. Kaoma Cheshire Orphanage Guesthouse ( 0977 221782; r
per person ZMW55, chalet per person ZMW100) is a simple, basic set-up that's clean and
friendly. It overlooks the Luena Valley and has some gorgeous views, especially early in
the morning; your patronage supports a local orphanage. There are clean twin rooms with
shared bathrooms or ensuite chalets available. If you give them notice a simple dinner can
be prepared (ZMW15) and breakfast is available in the morning; you can also self-cater.
BAROTSELAND
For many Zambians, the Western Province is Barotseland - the kingdom of the Lozi people who settled the fertile
flood plains of the Upper Zambezi, and established a stable system of rule and administration, under the power of
a paramount chief or king, called the litunga .
In the early 19th century the effects of the difaqane (forced migration) disrupted Lozi culture. Barotseland was
occupied by the Makololo people for around 40 years, but the Lozi regained control in the mid-19th century and
reinstated the litunga . At around the same time the explorer Livingstone came through, blazing the trail for other
Europeans, including George Westbeech, a trader who settled and became an adviser to the litunga .