Adventure Borneo - Borneo - page 63

JUNGLE RIVER TRIPS
The mountains and jungles of Borneo are drained by some of Southeast Asia's longest
rivers. Whether it's tearing up a mainline batang (Iban for 'large river') in a speedboat,
rafting down a sungai (Bahasa Malaysia for 'river') or kayaking on a narrow ai (Iban for
'small river') in an ulu (upriver) part of the interior, you'll find that these watery highways
are perhaps the best way to experience Borneo.
Many parts of Borneo's interior can be reached only by river, so hopping on a boat is a
necessity. There's something magical about heading to a human settlement connected by
road to absolutely nowhere, especially if you're in the safe hands of an experienced boat-
man and accompanied by locals.
On larger rivers, transport is often by 'flying coffin' - long, narrow passenger boats with
about 70 seats, not including the people sitting on the roof. Thanks to their mighty engines,
these craft can power upriver against very strong currents. Ferry safety is a major issue in
Kalimantan.
In a smaller upriver craft, such as a temuai (shallow-draft Iban longboat), be prepared for
you and your (hopefully waterproofed) kit to get dunked - and to get out and push if it
hasn't rained for a while. Whatever the size of the vessel, be aware that rivers can suddenly
rise by 2m or more after a downpour. If a boat looks unseaworthy or lacks basic safety
equipment (especially life vests), don't be shy about speaking up.
Sea-going craft travelling along the coast and out to offshore islands have to deal with
rougher waters than their inland counterparts. In Sarawak and parts of Kalimantan, this is
especially true from November to March, when the northeast monsoon can bring choppy
conditions.
Costs
Travel by boat does not come cheap, mainly because marine engines and outboard motors,
which must shove aside prodigious quantities of water, really slurp up the petrol.
For a small motorboat with a capacity of four to six people, count on paying about RM7
per kilometre, or roughly RM100 to RM150 per hour of actual sailing time. While the boat
is moored somewhere - at an island or a remote beach, for instance - you'll have to remu-
nerate the driver but, obviously, there are no fuel costs when the motor is off.