Adventure Borneo - Borneo - page 55

TRAVEL LITERATURE: STORIES OF ADVENTURE
Borneo has fired the world's imagination for centuries. Perhaps the best recent title is Stranger in the Forest
(1988) by Eric Hansen, in which the author recounts his journey across the island in the company of Penan
guides. It is not just the difficulty of the feat but the author's brilliant and sensitive storytelling that make the topic
a classic. One cannot read it without a sense of sadness, for the world and the people described are now almost
completely gone.
The most popular book about Borneo is Redmond O'Hanlon's Into the Heart of Borneo (1984), a humorous ac-
count of the author's 1983 journey up a river in Sarawak. While O'Hanlon makes a bit much of what was a fairly
unremarkable journey, one cannot help but enjoy his colourful narrative.
Espresso with Headhunters: A Journey Through the Jungles of Borneo (2001) by John Wassner tells of a more
extensive trip by an Australian traveller (and inveterate caffeine and nicotine addict). Not nearly as famous as
O'Hanlon's book, this gives a more realistic account of what life is like in Sarawak. We only wish he had chosen a
different title - it's time to let the whole Borneo-headhunter thing die a quiet death.
If you climb Mt Kinabalu, you'll notice the gaping chasm of Low's Gully to your right as you ascend the final
summit pyramid. Kinabalu Escape: The Soldiers' Story (1997)by Rich Mayfield tells of the British Army's ill-
fated 1994 attempt to descend the gully. The expedition, a textbook case in how not to run an expedition, led to an
expensive rescue operation and the near deaths of several team members.
Physical Demands
Hiking in the tropics is much more strenuous than in temperate zones. One kilometre of
slogging through Borneo is roughly equivalent to two in Europe or North America.
Thanks to the combination of high temperatures and high humidity, you will sweat
enough to discover what eyebrows are for, so be sure to drink plenty of water. In kerangas
(heath forests) and on high mountains, prepare for intense sun by wearing a hat and sun-
screen. Make sure your guide is aware of the pace you can handle.
Borneo is hardly the Himalayas, but even in places like the Kelabit Highlands (1500m)
you may feel the altitude, at least for a few days.
LEECHES SUCK (BLOOD)
There's just no getting around it: if you want to experience Borneo's magnificent tropical rainforests, at some
point you're going to find yourself getting up close and intimate with a leech ( www.invertebrate.us/leech ) - or,
more likely, with lots of them. If you can't stand the sight of blood, wear dark-coloured socks.