Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Generations of jungle travellers knew the routine: upon arrival they would present
themselves to the headman (
ketua kaum
in Malay,
tuai rumah
in Iban and
maren uma
in
Kayan), who would arrange for very basic sleeping quarters. But in the last decade or two,
as transport has become easier and tourist numbers have soared, this tradition has come
under strain, and these days turning up at a longhouse unannounced may be an unwel-
come imposition on longhouse residents - in short, bad manners.
The upshot is that in many areas of Borneo, the days when anyone could turn up unex-
pectedly at a longhouse and stay the night are largely over. And even if you make your
own way to a longhouse that's happy to have you, you are likely to face significant com-
munication and cultural barriers. Interacting spontaneously with locals isn't always easy,
as the elders usually don't speak English, and the younger people are often out working
the fields or have moved to the city to pursue careers.
GIFTS
Gift giving has become rather controversial over the last few years, with locals, tourists and tour operators offer-
ing a wide variety of advice on the subject. Longhouse communities do not traditionally require gifts from guests;
in fact, some say that the tradition of gift giving actually began when travellers started visiting.
To avoid any awkward cultural miscommunications, your best bet is to ask your guide. Longhouses set far off
the beaten track may appreciate bulk bags of rice or sugar, while communities that are a bit more in touch with the
modern world might appreciate items such as pencils, school supplies or fishing line. Some travellers bring
something edible that can be shared over glasses of
tuak
. Any way you do it, gifts are never a must, nor are they
expected.
Many tourists prefer contributing to the longhouse economy by hiring locals for a longboat trip or buying one
of the craft items offered for sale.
If you are visiting independently, it's polite to bring a small gift for the family of the person who invited you.
Finding a Guide
Hiring a guide who can coordinate your visit with longhouse residents and make introduc-
tions will help you avoid language and cultural barriers.
When considering a tour operator or freelance guide, it's best to keep an open mind
about the itinerary but do not hesitate to be upfront about preferences and concerns. Do
you require a certain level of sleeping comfort? Do you have any dietary restrictions?
How important is it that you be able to communicate with your hosts in English? Will you
be disappointed if you see a satellite dish dangling off the side of the longhouse's cell-
