Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
( 772 2777;
www.mahkotakayonghotel.com
; Jl Irama Laut; r/ste 350,000/700,000Rp;
)
This grand anomaly has an amusing personality all its own. Built on piles over the
water, in a lovely if remote situation, it dwarfs the rest of the town's accommodation, but
empties when its convention market dries up, leaving the staff in a situation comedy. The
rooms are a bit pricey and beaten up by the sea air - do negotiate - but you come here for
an interesting story, not an ironed duvet. Or hot water.
Penginapan Family $
(Jl Tanjungpura Sukadana; r with fan 50,000Rp, d/tw 175,000/200,000Rp)
Definitely the
nicest people you could ever rent a room from, this family provides free bikes to guests,
solving your local transport problem and proving the name is no exaggeration.
LOSMEN
Getting There & Around
Longboats
( Darwin for reservations 9.30am boat 0852 5207 6070, Indira for reser-
vations 9.30am boat 0813 5207 0117, Untung for reservations 8.30am boat 0812 5613
3570)
to Pontianak depart Sukadana harbour twice each morning (
one-way 175,000Rp;
departs 8.30am & 9.30am)
. The journey takes four hours. Sukadana can also be
reached by bus or car from Ketapang, which has an airport, but the longboat trip is not to
be missed. Tanjung Puting is reached by flying from Ketapang to Pangkalan Bun.
Sukadana is spread out, requiring transport. If you can't wangle a bike from Penginapan
Family, the ASRI clinic can help you find a scooter. Otherwise don't be afraid to stick out
your thumb.
Sungai Kapuas
Indonesia's longest river, Sungai Kapuas begins in the foothills of the Muller Range and
snakes 1143km to the sea. Unlike the Mahakam, however, there is no
kapal biasa
to make
your way upstream from Pontianak, nor are the views as good, as the forests of the lower
Kapuas have been heavily logged and developed. Buses have replaced boats as the
primary means of transport all the way to Putussibau, via unremarkable Sintang. Thus, for
the traveller the primary area of interest lies upriver, in the area known as
Kapuas Hulu
(upper Kapuas), half of which is now a protected area.
