Kalimantan - Borneo - page 485

why the forest exists in such a pristine state and why it is such a great opportunity to visit
now, as an incongruous helicopter pad attests: the US embassy flies in VIPs from Jakarta.
Wehea is not a national park, but a 38,000-hectare forest protected by adat (traditional
law), a different conservation model spearheaded by Ledjie Taq, leader of the Wehea
Dayak. The forest is patrolled by petkuq mehuey (forest guardians), a cadre of 35 to 40
rangers who keep it free from illegal activities such as poaching and logging. Their cause
is assisted by Integrated Conservation ( www.integratedconservation.org ) , a small and
highly dedicated NGO run by Brent Loken and Sheryl Gruber, who have placed 75 photo
traps on various wildlife trails to document the forest's biodiversity. See the results on the
website.
So how do you visit? There are two ways. At time of research Integrated Conservation
was nearing completion of a new conservation centre in the small village of Nehas Liah
Bing, which will serve as the gateway to the forest. It is the first new longhouse to be built
in many years, with modern facilities such as solar power and internet access, and three
guest rooms. The centre will provide information on the forest, register visitors and ar-
range visits, including transport, food, lodging and guides drawn from the petkuq mehuey .
Prices are still being established, but advance enquires may be made by email
([e-mail]).
Getting to Nehas Liah Bing is no small feat, however. First you must get to Muara Wa-
hau, either by driving up from Sangatta by 4WD, or taking the bus (150,000Rp, three
times daily). Either way it is six or seven hours on a notoriously bad road, one of the
worst in Kalimantan. However, this Top Gear adventure has its rewards, at least in a
4WD, and the last two hours are very scenic. In Muara Wahau you can overnight in basic
Hotel Aldi ( 0819 9915 7970; Muara Wahau; r 50,000rP-150,000Rp) , which offers
clean rooms with en suite mandi . To get to Nehas Liah Bing, take the main road from
here to Berau, but keep straight when it curves to the right. Turn right on a small dirt road
exactly 2km later, just past a post office ( kantor pos ). Continue on for 200m and follow
the road as it curves to the left. After another 300m you'll see the Wehea Conservation
Center (also referred to locally as the 'kantor PM') on your left. At least one day's ad-
vance notice of your arrival is key to avoid delays. Centre staff can also arrange a day trip
to two interesting limestone caves at Kombeng and Gua Maria (250,000Rp-400,000Rp).
Once your visit is arranged, you must still get to the forest. This requires a 2½-hour
drive from Nehas Liah Bing down remote logging roads, which may be impassable during
the wet season (during our research trip a flash flood came in the car doors). This last leg
creates a welcome sense of separation from the world, heightening your anticipation. You
are really heading into the wild.