Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
LONG BAGUN
Sleeping
LOSMEN
Penginapan Polewali $
( 081 350 538 997; r 50,000Rp)
This mountain lodge with traditional furnishings is a
breath of fresh air after the concrete boxes downriver. In fact, it is the best hotel on the
Upper Mahakam. Rooms are small, and bathrooms shared, but a nice breeze on the porch
keeps you outside, and there are warungs nearby. Turn right after you get off the boat.
THE WAY TO BORNEO'S HEART
From Long Bagun you embark upon the most thrilling ride on the Mahakam, the longboat to
Tiong Ohang
(800,000Rp, four hours). You'll need to wait until the boat has enough passengers, or pay more. This serpentine ad-
venture takes you through some spectacular gorges, with scenic waterfalls, ancient volcanic peaks and plenty of rap-
ids to keep you bouncing around as the powerful boat strains against the current. Somewhere along this ride, sur-
rounded by lush and dense primary growth forest, comes the uncanny realisation that you've entered the heart of
Borneo.
Around four hours into the trip you'll pass
Data Dawai
, which has the only airport upriver from Samarinda.
Susi
Air
( 0542 764 416;
www.susiair.com
; Jl Pupuk Raya 33)
flies charters here from Samarinda on Sunday, Wed-
nesday and Friday (800,000Rp), although this schedule is undoubtedly dynamic.
TIONG OHANG
Divided by the Mahakam, Tiong Ohang is united by its creaking pedestrian suspension
bridge, offering scenic views of the surrounding hills. This is the last stop before starting
the second stage in the Cross-Borneo Trek, the hike across the Muller Range. Guides/port-
ers are assembled here, although this should be done by a tour company. The trailhead is
two hours upriver by
ces
(1,000,000Rp). In the past the Muller trek began another three
hours further on, at scenic
Long Apari
, but the added expense, which is considerable this
far upriver, now makes this impractical.
