Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Sleeping
Penginapan Srimuntai $
( 0853 4963 0030; s/d 50,000/100,000Rp) Nice wide hallways and cleaner rooms elev-
ate this one above the competition.
LOSMEN
LOSMEN
Penginapan Adi Guna $
( 0853 4963 0030; r 50,000Rp) Basic fan-cooled rooms and large, shared mandi .
There's free coffee and tea and a welcome breeze on the balcony.
Getting There & Away
Get here from Samarinda by kapal biasa (70,000Rp, 10 hours) or bus to Kota Bangun
(23,000Rp, three hours) and ces from there (250,000Rp, two hours).
JANTUR
Jantur is the most interesting river town on the Mahakam, partly because of its location,
where the river enters a huge lake (Lake Jempang) bordered by wetlands; partly because it
is built on stilts, with two huge boardwalks connecting each side of the river; and partly
because it is missing from every map. The latter is particularly surprising, as this is no
small village. As you enter, it just keeps on going.
The town was founded by Banjarese from Negara, which has a similar topography, and
the brightly painted houses reflect this. A big, commanding yellow mosque, with its bright
aluminum dome, sits proudly upon the river, an impressive sight as you emerge from the
forest. Unfortunately there's no accommodation, but if you can arrange a homestay, do so.
The friendly people hardly ever see tourists, making for some great exchanges, while the
surrounding area is unique on the river, a vast wetlands savannah with a huge sky, like the
Everglades. In any case, be sure to get out and stroll the boardwalk, which is also a stroll
through village life; your camera will be clicking every few seconds. One example is the
storks at the end of people's docks, which are used as guard animals. If they start squawk-
ing, someone is pinching your dried fish!
TANJUNG ISUY
Tanjung Isuy is the first Dayak village as you head upriver. You're equally likely to hear a
shaman chanting as a mobile phone chirruping, as modern culture is only skin deep.
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