Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Suriyadi
( 081 6450 8263)
Speaks German.
GUIDE
Rustam
( 081 2585 4915, 735 641)
GUIDE
Jaelani
( 0813-4633 8343)
GUIDE
CHARIOTS OF THE MAHAKAM
You'll need several different types of boat to go the length of the Mahakam. Here are the principal varieties:
Kapal Biasa
These bi-level riverboats ply the lower Mahakam, from Samarinda to Long Bagun. The open lower
deck holds cargo, the kitchen (meals 20,000Rp) and basic bathrooms (visualise a hole in the deck). The closed up-
per deck is the sleeping area, a floating hostel where 60 people or so bed down, side by side, on simple mattresses
(provided). If you're making an overnight journey, head directly upstairs to stake a claim. The atmosphere is very
congenial; everyone else is used to this madness. The secret treasure is the balcony at the front, directly over the
captain, which provides an awesome elevated viewing platform. As the boat chugs upstream and kilometres of
jungle pass by, you can sit there serenely for hours on end in shaded comfort, munching on strange fruit from the
last stop. There is only room for five people or so, though, so let one be you, as it truly makes the voyage.
Longboats
Long speedboats with a canvas top and rows of seating for passengers, these powerful craft, with 400
horsepower behind them, are necessary for handling the rapids in the upper river. If you sit up front, you'll bounce
around a lot but it's worth it, as visibility is better. While sitting in the middle is smoother, you'll end up in a blue
haze, as everyone smokes like a chimney. Expensive, but a hell of a ride.
Ces
What else can we say? This is one romantic way to travel. These narrow wooden canoes are powered by a
lawnmower engine, attached to a propeller via a long stalk - the same longtails seen elsewhere in Asia. They are
also surprisingly stylish, with upturned snouts, raked sterns, occasional cabanas and colourful paint jobs. Best of
all, they provide access to the narrowest and shallowest stretches on the river, including some vast marshes. All
things considered, there is nothing,
nothing
like exploring the jungle on a beautiful day in one of these, a private
journey fit for a sultan. Sit on the cushioned hull in shaded comfort, eagerly awaiting the next source of
amazement. Just bring your earplugs.
River travel! The joy of Kalimantan.
TENGGARONG
0541 / POP 75,000
