Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
THE CROSS-BORNEO TREK: A WORLD-CLASS
ADVENTURE
Borneo offers one of the world's greatest, and most overlooked, adventure-travel routes. East and West Kali-
mantan are divided by the Muller mountain range, which also serves as the headwaters for Indonesia's two longest
rivers
(sungai)
. Sungai Mahakam flows 930km to the east coast, by Samarinda, while Sungai Kapuas, the world's
longest island river, snakes 1143km to the west coast, by Pontianak. Thus, by travelling up the Mahakam, hiking
over the Muller Range, and travelling down the Kapuas (or vice versa) it is possible to cross the world's third-
largest island from one side to the other, forming a single Cross-Borneo Trek. This three-part jungle-river extra-
vaganza takes you into the very heart of Borneo, and out again, stitching together virtually everything Kalimantan
has to offer, from wildlife to culture to pure adventure, including some absolutely thrilling boat rides. There are
even international airports near either end, with visas available on arrival, making getting there and away a simple
matter. Be forewarned, however: while the two river journeys are easily managed, the central trek of five days or
more across the Muller Range is a significant undertaking, for serious jungle trekkers only. On the other hand, if
you can't do the entire Cross-Borneo Trek, the first stage is great by itself.
Stage One: Sungai Mahakam
(
Click here
)
The preferred cross-Borneo route begins in Balikpapan, the one cos-
mopolitan city in Kalimantan, where you can collect your visa and prepare yourself for what's ahead with an inex-
pensive five-star hotel room, a day at the beach, and some lively nightlife. From there you travel overland to
Samarinda, whose great mosque stands like an exotic sentinel at the start of your upriver journey. After several
days in a succession of boats, making side trips into lakes and marshes, spotting wildlife, and visiting small river
towns, you'll finally arrive at Tiong Ohang, near the trailhead for stage two. Allow a full week.
Stage Two: The Muller Mountains
(
Click here
) You do this jungle trek for the same reason you climb Mt
Everest: because it's there. Noted for its river fordings, hordes of leeches, and treacherous slopes, it requires the
assistance of a professional guiding company, a critical decision. We recommend only two: De'Gigant Tours (
Click here
) in Samarinda for east-west itineraries, and Kompakh (
Click here
)
in Putussibau for west-east cross-
ings. If you walk steadily eight hours a day, you can make it across in five days, but seven is more comfortable
and safer.
Stage Three: Sungai Kapuas
(
Click here
)
This leg begins with a single day-long boat ride along the upper
Kapuas and its tributary, Sungai Bungan, the latter being the most thrilling part of the entire journey. After reach-
ing Putussibau, it's best to fly or drive to Pontianak the next morning, as boat travel down the lower Kapuas is un-
scheduled, meaning it can take several days to weeks. This makes the last stage only two days long.
The east-to-west itinerary above is preferable, as the Mahakam gets progressively wilder the further up you go -
the perfect beginning - whereas the day-long boat trip downriver to Putussibau, from boiling rapids to a placid
sunset arrival, is a fine ending. In contrast, the lack of public transport from Pontianak to Putussibau cuts the
Kapuas journey in half, you miss the downriver sleigh ride on the Bungan, and the Muller trek is steeper and thus
more difficult from the west.
In local terms, the Cross-Borneo Trek is a bit pricey due to transport costs, which increase the further you go
into the interior. The total is around 22,000,000Rp per person for two people, 20,000,000Rp for three, and
17,000,000Rp for four. But the overall experience, while by no means easy, is a noteworthy achievement,
something you'll remember for the rest of your life.
If you haven't had enough of Kalimantan, you can continue from Pontianak along the southern coast all the
way back to Balikpapan, via Sukadana, Ketapang, Tanjung Puting, Pangkalan Bun, Palangka Raya, Banjarmasin
