Sarawak - Borneo - page 392

The going rate for guides is RM100 per day for either a Bario-based day trip or a longer trek. Some itineraries
involve either river trips (highly recommended if the water is high enough) or travel by 4WD - naturally, these
significantly increase the cost. The going rate for a porter is RM80 to RM100 a day.

If you are connecting the dots between rural longhouses, expect to pay RM70 for a night's sleep plus three
meals (you can opt out of lunch and save RM10 or RM15). Gifts are not obligatory but the people who live in re-
mote longhouses are appreciative if, after you drink tea or coffee with them, you offer RM10 'to cover the costs'
or 'to buy pens and paper for the children'.

If your route requires that you camp in the forest, expect to pay approximately RM120 per night; in addition,
you may be asked to supply food, which is provided for both you and your guide when you stay in a longhouse.
Equipment for jungle camping (eg a sleeping bag, hammock, mozzie net and bed roll) cannot be purchased in
Bario so it's a good idea to bring your own, though Bario Asal Longhouse may be able to rent it out.

If you're trekking in one direction only (eg Bario to Ba Kelalan), you will be asked to continue paying the guid-
ing fee while your guide returns home through the jungle (in this scenario, it would take them two days to trek
from Ba Kelalan back to Bario).
Detailed topographical maps of Sarawak exist but it's nearly impossible to get hold of them. According to in-
the-know locals, the government's calculation seems to be that activists will find it harder to fight for native land
rights if they lack proper maps.

Pa' Umor Route
From Bario it's a 1½-hour walk - notorious for its legions of lecherous leeches - to Pa'
Umor , where there's longhouse accommodation ( for Jaman 013-828 0507, for Rian
013-812 8851) . Continue on for 2km (50 minutes) and you come to a salt spring.
About 15 minutes from Pa' Umor is Arur Bilit Farm, home to Batu Narit , an impress-
ive stone carving featuring a human in the spread-eagled position among its designs.
From the farm, use the log bridge to cross a small river (25 minutes) in order to reach
Batu Ipak . According to local legend, this stone formation was created when an angry
warrior named Upai Semering pulled out his parang (machete) and took a wrathful swing
at the rock, cutting it in two. This circuit should take four or five hours - maybe a tad
longer if your guide is a good storyteller.

TREKKING

TREKKING

Pa' Lungan Route
(homestays per person incl board RM70, boat ride up to 4 people RM250) A wide, muddy
forest trail - used by water buffalos to pull sleighs carrying goods and, on occasion, med-
ical evacuees - heads from Bario to Pa' Lungan (four hours). Unlike almost all the other
Highland trails, this one is walkable without a guide as long as you have clear instruc-
tions. About halfway along you can stop at Batu Arit , a large stone featuring bird
carvings and humanoid figures with heart-shaped faces.