Sarawak - Borneo - page 335

Tours
LONGHOUSE TOURS
Longhouses, many of them quite modern and some accessible by road (river travel is both
slower and pricier than going by minibus), can be found along the Batang Baleh, which
conflows with the Batang Rejang 9km upstream from Kapit, and the Sungai Sut, a tribu-
tary of the Batang Baleh. Longhouses along these rivers tend to be more traditional (ie
still have hunted heads on display) than their counterparts along the mainline Batang Re-
jang.
The problem is finding a good guide. Tours run by Alice Chua ( 019-859 3126; at-
[e-mail]) , Kapit's only licensed guide, are pricey and, frankly, do not get rave
reviews. You could also ask at your hotel for recommendations. A few lucky travellers get
invitations from locals!
According to the Kapit Resident's Office, the license of one local guide has been re-
voked for cause. Despite this, he continues to approach visitors, some of whom have made
complaints. Because licensed guides are rare in Kapit, and quite a few of Sarawak's unli-
censed guides are competent and knowledgeable, it can be difficult to gauge a guide's
suitability at first encounter. We advise that you talk to other travellers and local hotel
owners as to which operators are recommended or best avoided.
VISITING LONGHOUSES ON YOUR OWN
A few communities around Kapit are accustomed to independent travellers, charging
RM10 or RM15 for a day visit or RM50 per person if you overnight, including the prepar-
ation of food that you bring along. The headman may also expect a tip. Some people re-
commend bringing sweets or school supplies for the children. There may not be much to
do at a longhouse, especially if there aren't any English speakers around.
Longhouses you may consider visiting:
» Rumah Bundong One of the area's few remaining traditional Iban longhouses. Situated
on Sungai Kapit a 45-minute (10km) drive from Kapit.
» Rumah Jandok A traditional longhouse on Sungai Yong with quite a few English
speakers, situated down the Batang Rejang from Kapit.
» Nanga Mujong This Iban longhouse, site of a school and a clinic, is served by a road
that ends on the opposite bank of the Batang Baleh, from where boats ferry residents
across.
» Rumah Penghulu Jampi An Iban longhouse at the final express-boat stop on the
Batang Baleh.