Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
» Along the Batang Rejang to points upriver from the Pelagus Rapids (32km upstream from Kapit).
» Up the Batang Baleh, which flows into the Batang Rejang 9km upriver from Kapit.
In fact, we've never heard of anyone having their permit checked, and the whole arrangement seems to be a bur-
eaucratic holdover from the time when the government sought to limit foreign activists' access to Dayak com-
munities threatened by logging or the controversial Bakun Dam. Permits are not required, even in theory, if you
travel to Belaga overland from Bintulu.
Permits are issued in Kapit at the Resident's Office ( 084-796230; www.kapitro.sarawak.gov.my ; 9th fl,
Kompleks Kerajaan Negeri Bahagian Kapit, Jln Bleteh; 8am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Thu, 8-11.45am &
2.15-5pm Fri) , in a nine-storey building 2km west of the centre. To get there, take a van (RM1.50) from the
southeast corner of Pasar Teresang. To get back to town, ask the lobby guards for help catching a ride (offer to pay
the driver).
LONGHOUSE VISITS
Many of the indigenous people of the Batang Rejang basin, both Iban and members of
Orang Ulu groups such as the Kenyah, Kayan, Lahanan, Punan and Sekapan, still live in
longhouses. While most aren't as traditional as travellers may envision, visiting one can
be a great way to interact with some of Borneo's indigenous people.
Based on geography, Kapit and Belaga should be good bases from which to set out to
explore longhouses along the upper Batang Rejang and its tributaries. Unfortunately,
we've been hearing about two sorts of difficulties faced by some recent travellers:
Visiting longhouses without an invitation or a guide is becoming more complicated as
traditional Dayak norms, according to which visitors are always welcome, are giving way
to more 'modern' (ie commercial) ideas.
Some area tour guides and van drivers demand inflated prices and/or provide services
that aren't up to standard. For instance, visitors may be dropped off at a longhouse with
nothing to do and no way to communicate with the residents until they're picked up the
next day.
In short, it can sometimes be difficult to find a guide who has good local knowledge
and contacts, speaks English and charges reasonable prices. Some travellers report being
invited by locals to their longhouses - but that's not something you can count on. One
good option is to make arrangements through one of the tour agencies based in Sibu. For
up-to-date feedback from other travellers, check out Lonely Planet's Thorn Tree forum
( www.lonelyplanet.com ) .
Search WWH ::




Custom Search